Hike, ride, kayak
Discover 3 ways to see the Arizona desert
SCOTTSDALE, Ariz. — What’s one thing Arizona has that many places do not have this time of year? Sun. And warm weather and cacti and mountains. In short, a desert climate.
The Sonoran Desert covers much of the southwestern part of the United States and into Mexico. It’s known for a variety of vegetation including the majestic saguaro (it’s the only place in the world it grows in the wild), prickly pear and organ pipe cactus.
In Scottsdale, a favorite vacation destination known for its golf courses and spas, I set out to explore the desert.
Apparently, exploring the desert is a popular vacation activity.
According to the City of Scottsdale Tourism Department’s October 2019 visitor statistics, exploring state parks and hiking were among the top 10 activities for visitors.
Hiking
The cheapest, easiest and most up-close-and personal way to experience the desert is to walk through it. The McDowell Sonoran Desert Preserve has more than 200 miles of trails on which to do that across nearly 31,000 acres. It is the largest urban preserve in North America, making it 36 times the size of New York’s Central Park. The preserve is open from sunrise to sunset, and there is no charge for parking or access at any of the seven major trailheads. You can hike, bike and even ride a horse
across the trails.
I hiked both the Gateway and the Tom’s Thumb trails. The Gateway Loop, at 3.6 miles, is a great way to take in a variety of cacti and even a few scurrying animals here and there. The trail rose fairly easily, a 625-foot change, along the towering mountains.
The Tom’s Thumb trail, a 5-mile loop with some pretty steep climbs (a 1,363-foot change in elevation), is much more difficult. The loose gravel amid giant boulders makes coming down in sneakers tough — OK, a dumb idea. I highly recommend hiking boots. In addition, the docents at the trailhead told me that you start at an elevation higher than the famously difficult Camelback Mountain hike, also in Scottsdale. I’m convinced that made it even harder.
In warmer months, heat is a serious concern, and warnings about water and dehydration are posted. More info: mcdowellsonoran.org.
By ATV
It’s been many years since I’ve been on an ATV, and I don’t remember ever driving one. But guide Chad Turner listened to my questions and assured me that I would be fine, and so would my son. Just listen to him, follow the rules and have fun. I did all three.
With Turner in the lead, we hopped on our automatic four-wheel ATVs to explore the desert in the Tonto National Forest, which extends over nearly 3 million acres. We went up and down hills and around water and over ruts and through sand washes (through which you have to go really fast) right next to cacti as Turner pointed out features of the area, all with gorgeous mountains around us and sunny skies above.
Stellar Adventures is one of the few tour operators to have permission to operate in the forest. With 900 miles of trails, it’s a good idea to have a guide; all those cacti look a lot alike after a while.
Turner told us some families do the tour, which can differ based on skill level and interest, at the beginning of their vacation and come back more than once because it really is that much fun. Kids 12 and older can drive an ATV. A two-hour ride is $185, which includes snacks and beverages. Note: The trailhead is about 45 minutes from downtown Scottsdale, and there is no bathroom at the trailhead.
More info: stellaradventures.com.
By kayak
Kayaking isn’t the first thing I thought of when folks at ExperienceScottsdale.com suggested it as a way to see the desert. But seeing the mountains, the wildlife and an Indian reservation from an inflatable, “self-bailing” river kayak with my son made for a unique perspective on the desert.
We joined four others along with a guide on an REI Co-Op half-day trip along the Lower Salt River. Depending on water levels, you may kayak a different part of the river. We started near a few Class I rapids, which made me a bit nervous, but after that it was smooth sailing.
For a desert, even in December, the riverbanks were surprisingly verdant, standing out even more amazingly among the towering red cliffs. We spotted a bald eagle and several herons but, alas, no wild horses known to run along that stretch of river. Rates start at $116 and include transportation. More info: destinations. rei.com/ arizona, experiencescottsdale.com