Crispy fried rice a perfect pandemic pantry recipe
When microwaved leftovers trigger flashbacks to sad desk lunches, but aspirational coronavirus cooking feels like too much work, you might try what’s become my go-to pandemic pantry non-recipe for crispy fried rice.
A hidden golden crust distinguishes this technique that’s far easier than even nontraditional fried rice and grants you permission to stop trying to recreate your favorite restaurant’s dish.
Crispy fried rice is made with leftover rice, frozen peas and window sill scallions, plus fresh spring asparagus and radishes.
Rice cookers have eliminated scorched rice, the toasted layer left behind in a cooking pot. That is unless it’s created with intent. Every rice culture shares a variation, from Chinese claypot rice to Korean dolsot bibimbap to Spanish paella socarrat to prized Persian tahdig.
A nutty hard bite as satisfying as a kettle potato chip or crackling pork rind transforms leftovers simply layered over rice. Use a nonstick pan or well-seasoned cast iron, and enough oil to barely coat the bottom, a ratio of about 1 tablespoon oil to 2 cups cooked rice. Top with whatever leftovers you have, and add fresh or frozen ingredients if you want.
You can use whatever leftovers you have on hand with this technique, but if you want a recipe for inspiration, here’s the dish with spring ingredients to serve as a side or main, possibly topped with fried eggs or sauteed nuts.
CRISPY FRIED RICE WITH ASPARAGUS AND RADISHES
1 bunch red radishes with green tops, about 1 lb., halved as needed to bite size
1 bunch asparagus, about 1 lb.
3 T. oil
6 c. cooked rice, hot or cold 1/2 c. frozen peas
1 t. freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
1 T. soy sauce
3 scallions, greens sliced thin (save white roots to regrow in a jar of water on your window sill) Butter plus lemon or white rice vinegar
Soak the radishes to wash well of sandy soil; separate the greens from the red roots. For the asparagus, snap off tough bottoms for compost; snap spears in half, separate stems from tips.
In a cold wok, skillet or wide-bottomed saucepan, add oil then swirl to coat. Add rice, then red radish roots and asparagus stems. Season with half of the pepper and salt to taste. Cover, then turn heat on medium high. Cook until you hear sizzling and smell rice toasting, about 5 minutes.
Turn the heat down, then carefully uncover. Scrape down any stray rice grains. Re-cover, then turn heat to medium and cook, about 10 minutes. Turn heat down again, uncover, break up any clumps of rice and check that a crust is forming underneath. Add a little more oil as needed. Add radish greens, asparagus tips and frozen peas, plus remaining pepper and salt to taste. Re-cover, then turn heat to medium; cook, about 5 more minutes.
Turn off heat, uncover, add soy sauce around the edge of rice, then slide your spatula around the bottom crust. Garnish with scallion greens and butter; season to taste with lemon or vinegar for bright acidity. Serve directly from the pan, breaking crunchy crust as needed, golden side up.