Fresh takes
Fruitcake gets an upgrade with creative combinations
Jason Schreiber is a staunch advocate of fruit cakes for every season. While his repertoire includes the boozy Christmas fruitcake loaded with dried fruits and nuts, it is not confined to it. The recipe developer and food stylist has widened the fruits-incake concept with creative desserts that incorporate familiar and uncommon fruits.
He touts a peanut butter and jelly snack cake topped with strawberries. Four-layer hummingbird cake flavored with banana, pineapple and coconut. Crumb cakes moistened with poached pear or blueberry and gooseberry. Crepe cake layered with a guava paste filling. Macaroon cake packed with dried apricots.
Raspberry tea cake with a hint of black pepper. Creamy cheesecake perfumed with pureed mamey, aka sapote. Chocolate cake soused with port-soaked dried figs.
They are among 75 recipes featured in his debut cookbook, “Fruit Cake: Recipes for the Curious Baker” (William Morrow; November 2020). The 38-year-old Brooklyn resident has worked at Ron Ben-Israel Cakes in New York City and written recipes under the Martha Stewart brand name.
It was after he made a fruitcake for his brother’s wedding that he decided to pay ode to fruit cakes with a cookbook.
“I thought if I was writing a book where fruit is the focus, I wanted it to be aspirational and educational on some level,” he said. “I wanted to introduce people to fruits that they might have had before but not made anything with it. Or it might be a fruit they stumbled on or sought out.”
He offers substitutions for the unusual and harder to find fruits. For instance, he suggests doubling the blueberries in the crumb cake recipe if gooseberries cannot be found. His make-do suggestion is even easier for a kiwi and goldenberry torte. “If fresh goldenberries are unavailable, substitute with a smattering of your favorite fruit,” he writes in the book.
If a fruit is out of season, he works with ones that are available. His buttermilk ricotta cake with peaches, he says, works just as well with mangoes, pineapple and even banana. He avoids fruits that will break down too much in the oven and also oranges, as they will add too much liquid.
PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY CAKE
If you like a PB&J sandwich, you would love this PB&J cake. It has a pronounced peanut butter flavor that is complimented well by jams like strawberry or lingonberry. Avoid natural peanut butter as it will toughen the batter and weigh down the cake.
Leave the stem on a few berries for a touch of color.
For preparing the pan, make Pan Goo by whisking together N cup neutral oil and L cup all-purpose flour. Then brush it onto the pan. O c. all-purpose flour
O t. baking powder
K t. coarse salt
K c. smooth peanut butter
(not natural)
4 T. unsalted butter,
softened
O c. firmly packed light
brown sugar
1 large egg plus 1 large egg
yolk
L c. whole milk
1 t. pure vanilla extract
L c. any berry jam
1 lb. strawberries, the largest ones cut into halves or quarters Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the center position. Brush a 9-inch round cake pan with Pan Goo.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine peanut butter, butter and light brown sugar. Beat together on medium speed until the mixture is smooth and very creamy, about 3 minutes. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add the egg and yolk.
Continue beating on medium speed until the egg has been completely incorporated into the batter, about 1 minute longer.
With the mixer running on low speed, add half the flour mixture, beating until just combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and continue mixing on low speed while slowly adding the milk and vanilla.
Add the remaining flour mixture and stir by hand until smooth. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a small offset spatula.
Bake until the cake is just firm to the touch and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, about 25 minutes.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Allow the cake to rest in the pan for 10 minutes before inverting it onto the rack to cool completely,
Transfer the cake to a serving platter. Be careful, because the underside may stick to the cooling rack. Spread the jam over the top of the cake and pile high
with strawberries. Makes 12 servings.
COCONUT APRICOT MACAROON CAKE
This is one of those cakes with a bold and beautiful flavor that will be instantly consumed. It has the chew of a coconut macaroon and a flash of tartness from the apricots. The cake will keep at room temperature, covered for three or four days.
For preparing the pan, make Pan Goo by whisking together N cup neutral oil and L cup all-purpose flour. Then brush it onto the pan. For the cake:
1 c. dried apricots, cut into
N-inch pieces
N c. apricot preserves
K c. unsweetened shredded
coconut
1 c. all-purpose flour
1 t. baking powder
1 t. coarse salt
6 T. coconut oil, melted
1 c. granulated sugar
2 large eggs
L c. whole milk
1 t.vanilla extract
For the topping:
1 large egg white
2 T. granulated sugar
1 pinch coarse salt
1 c. unsweetened flaked
coconut
Sanding sugar for sprinkling
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the center position. Grease a 9-inch round cake pan with Pan Goo.
In a small saucepan, stir together apricots, apricot preserves and N cup water.
Set over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until a syrup forms that is thick enough to hold a line, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat and toss with shredded coconut. Set aside to cool slightly.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the coconut oil, sugar and eggs until smooth and creamy. Whisk in the milk and vanilla. Using a rubber spatula, stir the flour mixture into the wet ingredients.
Gently fold the apricot-coconut mixture into the batter, distributing it evenly throughout. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan.
To make the topping, in a medium bowl, whisk the egg white, granulated sugar and salt until just foamy, about 30 seconds.
Stir in the coconut flakes and scatter on top of the cake batter. Sprinkle with sanding sugar.
Bake until the cake is firm to the touch and golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, about 1 hour.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Rest the cake in the pan for about 10 minutes. Then unmold onto the rack to cool completely. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
BUTTERMILK RICOTTA AND PEACH CAKE
Frozen firm-ripe peaches work beautifully here in an off-season time like now. Vanilla beans are more flavorful than vanilla extract, and also more expensive. So if you are watching your budget, you could use 1 tablespoon of pure vanilla extract in place of the bean. . For preparing the pan, make Pan Goo by whisking together N cup neutral oil and L cup all-purpose flour. Then brush it onto the pan.
For the buttermilk ricotta:
2 c. whole milk
1 c. heavy cream
O c. buttermilk
2 T. freshly squeezed lemon
juice (from 1 lemon)
1 t. coarse salt
For the cake:
1N c. all-purpose flour
1K t. baking powder
1 t. coarse salt
O c. plus 3 T. granulated
sugar, divided
2 large eggs
6 T. unsalted butter, melted
and cooled slightly 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped out
1 t. finely grated lemon zest
(from 1 lemon)
1 c. sliced firm-ripe peaches, K-inch thick
In a small saucepan, combine milk, cream and buttermilk over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it reaches 200 degrees on a candy thermometer and curds begin to form, about 15 minutes.
Add lemon juice and give it one last stir. Then remove the pan from the heat and let it sit undisturbed for 30 minutes.
Stir in the salt. Drain the curds in the refrigerator overnight through a triple layer of cheesecloth set in a colander over a bowl. The cheese should be firm enough to just hold its shape and measure a little over 1 cup when it’s ready.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the upper-third position. Brush a 9-inch springform pan with Pan Goo.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.
In a large bowl, whisk the ricotta. O cup sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla seeds and lemon zest until the mixture is rich and creamy.
Stir the dry ingredients into the ricotta mixture until just combined. Then scrape the batter into the pan.
Scatter the sliced peaches on top of the batter and sprinkle with the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar.
Bake the cake until the edges are golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, about 45 minutes.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Allow the cake to cool for a few minutes before removing the collar from the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 10 to 12 servings.
All recipes from “Fruit Cake: Recipes for the Curious Baker” by Jason Schreiber (William Morrow; November 2020)