Glam squad
New York Fashion Week dazzles - here are the highlights
Just as New Englanders eagerly await the coming of spring, New York Fashion Week offers a look at next fall’s styles. The splashy and (mostly) backin-person lineup of designer shows wrapped up this week, and there was no shortage of glam moments.
Things kicked off last Thursday with a show from Christian Siriano. His daring and inclusive collections are always a sartorial shot in the arm for the Week, and this year the show was inspired by, as Siriano put it, “Audrey Hepburn’s rose garden at midnight.” White, pink, and lavender roses flanked the runway, and Siriano sent out refined bubblehemmed midi dresses and rose print-covered pantsuits on models—who by the way included Lindsay Lohan’s siblings, Ali and Cody. (Lindsay herself sat in the front row next to Julia Stiles.)
The highlights continued on Friday, particularly with the Rodarte runway show at Williamsburgh Savings Bank. The production threw down the gauntlet with over-the-top drama. From the silverdraped banquet tables and shimmering candelabras to the goth makeup on models, it was a suitably fantastical backdrop for the equally glitzy clothes— the likes of floor length black column dresses, mint green sequin-covered pant sets, and metallic silver gowns outfitted with wings.
Later that day, Prabal Gurung set his runway show at the New York Public Library, and took it to an even grander level with a mirrored runway floor and starlight projections all over the ceiling). The collection leaned heavily on asymmetrical pieces, while others were festooned with patterns meant to mimic butterfly wings. Outerwear was big, too, with standouts like a fuzzy, oversized coat swirling with high-energy reds and pinks.
On Saturday, Proenza Schouler’s runway show focused on referencing the house’s past designs (with vintage prints used as linings) but moving on to new versions—like velvet tie-dye dresses from the past, but toned down in color. There were sharpcut trenches and blazercut wool coats, and plenty of extremely wearable midi dresses in metallics, or black jersey, or even more velvet.
Ulla Johnson’s Sunday runway show was found on the 65th floor of Hudson Yards. There she showed off tomato-red crocheted sweaters and ankle-length off-the-shoulder dresses, evening tops strewn with ruffles, and her calling card—boho skirts and blousons in animal and global prints. Meanwhile, the Jason Wu runway show was held at
The Guggenheim. Trumpet lilies bowed over the edges of the catwalk as models sashayed out in draped and ruched evening dresses in colors both warm (ochre, brass, and mustard) and jewel-toned
(plum and chocolate numbers, with plenty of sheer cutouts and lace).
Then came Monday, and along with it, Et Ochs’s digital show and by-appointment showings in designer Michelle Ochs’s showroom (also at Hudson Yards). This season, in addition to her signature evening gowns, she delves into workwear. Think clean-lined dark denim everyday pieces (her asymmetrical tunics are a knockout), boiled wool vests sporting graphic pockets in contrasting colors, and shift dresses with slashed sides beneath matching blazers.
On the heels of that show came Bibhu Mohapatra’s, which was full of the expected glamour and dramatic energy. I especially liked the gorgeous blue tulle dress he sent out, seemingly ready to take on any big event with a flourish. But I also loved what Tory Burch did after that — that is, taking everyday looks and revving them up with daring elements like extra-flowy midi skirts, brocade jackets with a matching cropped pant, and boldly hued satin in everything from a lime green dress pant and a chocolate blouse to shimmering navy trousers and a stunning green longsleeved midi dress.
And on Tuesday, Brandon Maxwell’s runway collection continued the house’s trend toward modern minimalism; think beautiful tailoring in neutral colors. That meant meticulous and accessible pieces like peplum-waisted and bell-sleeved tunics in gray and camel, structured winter coats at all lengths, and sleek tuxedo jackets.
All of those highlights give us something to look forward to this fall — and maybe even a little inspiration for our end-of-winter wardrobe.