Boston Sunday Globe

At Midnight Morning, it’s always a good time to gather

- | DEVRA FIRST Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com.

Where to: Midnight Morning, the Birch Street bistro that took the place of the longtime Birch Street Bistro in Roslindale.

Why: For a friendly, neighborho­od-y dinner with fellow guests of all ages and stripes. Plus: Sunday brunch!

The backstory: Before opening Midnight Morning, owner Virginia Schubert worked in design but found herself increasing­ly drawn to hospitalit­y. She turned this formerly dark and cozy space into a light, bright, modern dining room with gray and brick walls, colorful artwork, and vases of flowers along the communal dining island that separates the tables from the bar.

What to eat: The menu offers sophistica­ted comfort food with plenty of internatio­nal flavors. The latest version invites guests to snack on fried pickles, chicken wings with harissa and lime, or smoked trout pate with fennel-onion relish and fried capers. There are plenty of salads: arugula and oranges with olives and fennel, farro and fresh herbs with eggplant, black garlic Caesar salad. Main dishes include roasted red pepper cavatelli, a burger, tofu-mushroom fried rice, and roast chicken with corn, black beans, and sweet potatoes. Children can have buttered pasta, chicken tenders, and other classic kids’ menu fare. For dessert: apple fritters or pumpkin-maple semolina cake.

What to drink: Midnight Morning has a list of creative house cocktails such as the margarita-esque Captain Crunch (made with corn liqueur) and the Honey Oats (a daiquiri topped with oat milk foam). There are also several zero-proof offerings. The wine list covers a range from orange wine to Lambrusco to Oregon pinot noir and beyond. Beer is mostly made in New England, in styles from all over: Konstantin, an Austrian-style Märzen from New Hampshire’s Schilling Beer Co.; Farmhouse from Idle Hands in Malden; Irish Stout from Lone Pine Brewing Co. in Maine.

The takeaway: Laidback and friendly, Midnight Morning could become a regular haunt for Rozzidents, neighbors, and visitors. It’s a welcome addition to Birch Street’s pedestrian plaza, with its outdoor seating, adjacent Distractio­n Brewing Co., and other nearby restaurant­s.

14 Birch St, Roslindale, 617-3905830, www.midnightmo­rning.net. Appetizers $7-$16, entrees $20-$28, cocktails $14.

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PHOTOS BY JONATHAN WIGGS/GLOBE STAFF
 ?? ?? Red pepper cavatelli (above left) and pumpkin-maple semolina cake at Midnight Morning (top) in Roslindale. Inset left: Owner Virginia Schubert.
Red pepper cavatelli (above left) and pumpkin-maple semolina cake at Midnight Morning (top) in Roslindale. Inset left: Owner Virginia Schubert.
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