Call & Times

Making nutritious snacks

Doing it yourself cuts down on preservati­ves

- By SARA KATE GILLINGHAM Recipe source: From cookbook author and TheKitchn.com founder Sara Kate Gillingham. Tested by Kara Elder.

When I was a kid, the primary packaging in my lunch was the brown paper bag that held it all together. Occasional­ly my mom would buy the two- compartmen­t Kraft HandiSnack­s cheese-and-cracker sets with the red plastic stick for spreading the cheese. Who remembers those? In the late ' 70s and '80s, they were one of the only snacks in town.

These days, the packaged snack food industry has exploded into an $80 billion- a- year affair. According to David Sprinkle, research director for Packaged Facts, a division of MarketRese­arch. com, snack bars alone represent almost $7 billion in annual sales. People are quite literally living off packaged snacks.

Many of these snacks claim to be "healthy," but I am skeptical of packaging claims. Besides, to me the concept of health is related not only to ingredient­s and daily allowance of sugar, fat and carbs, but also to the health of the planet. What about packaging? What about the process of making processed ingredient­s?

So I set out to make some popular packaged snack foods at home.

DARK CHOCOLATE AND SEA SALT BARS

These snack bars are so close to the original (Kind brand) that you might be able to fool some people. You can also go off-road and make up your own combinatio­ns with seeds such as sesame or chia, other nuts like cashews and pecans, dried fruit and even spices like ginger and cardamom. Replacing half the brown rice syrup with a beaten egg white will reduce the sugar content and give you a little protein boost.

Make sure you wait until they are completely cool before drizzling the chocolate or attempting to wrap them.

Ingredient­s:

3/ 4 cup whole roasted, unsalted almonds 2/3 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts 2/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 1 cup crisped brown rice cereal ( may substitute puffed grain cereals such as millet or amaranth) 1/ 4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for finishing 1/4 cup brown rice syrup 1 large egg white, beaten 1/3 cup (2 ounces) bitterswee­t chocolate pieces/chips 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a quarter baking sheet (9 by 12 inches) with parchment paper, leaving some paper overhang (for easier extraction later).

Combine all the nuts, the cereal and the salt in a mixing bowl.

Gently heat the brown rice syrup until liquid, either in a microwave on MEDIUM-LOW for 20 seconds or on the stove top in small saucepan over medium- low heat. Pour the syrup over the nut mixture and stir until evenly coated, then stir in the egg white until evenly distribute­d. Transfer the mixture to the baking sheet, using the back of a spatula to compact the mixture into a slab, which may not fill quite to the edges.

Bake (middle rack) for about 15 minutes, or until starting to brown along the edges of the slab. Transfer to a wire rack to cool (on the sheet) for 20 minutes.

Use the parchment paper to lift the slab from the pan, transferri­ng it to a cutting board. Cut into 16 bars of equal size. Let cool completely.

Meanwhile, prepare the chocolate drizzle: Combine the chocolate and oil in a microwave- safe bowl. Microwave on MEDIUM in 30-second increments, stirring in between, until the chocolate is melted.

Drizzle this over the bars in a crisscross pattern, then sprinkle lightly with a litle salt. Allow the chocolate to set, at least 15 minutes, before serving or storing.

Make Ahead: The bars, wrapped individual­ly in parchment paper and kept in an airtight container, can be held at room temperatur­e for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month.

Recipe source: From cookbook author and TheKitchn. com founder Sara Kate Gillingham. Tested by Sharon Hageman.

HOMEMADE CHEEZ-ITS

You might run across skeptics who think you can't make a cracker taste like a commercial­ly produced Cheez-It — but they would be just plain wrong. These crackers are so easy to make and so tasty. But what puts them above and beyond the store- bought version, besides their nutritiona­l value and lack of packaging, is that you can eat them straight from the oven when they're warm.

Ingredient­s:

2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus more for dusting 1/3 cup whole-wheat flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon table salt or fine sea salt 1/8 teaspoon sweet paprika 8 ounces grated sharp or extra-sharp cheddar, Jack or Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese (or a combinatio­n), at room temperatur­e 4 tablespoon­s ( 1/ 2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperatur­e 2 or 3 tablespoon­s ice water Kosher salt, for sprinkling

Directions:

Whisk together the flours, baking powder, table or fine sea salt and the paprika in mixing bowl.

Combine the cheese and butter in the bowl of stand mixer on medium speed, until well blended. Stop to scrape down the bowl.

On low speed, add the flour mixture and beat to form a crumbly mix. Gradually add the water, as needed, until a ball of dough forms.

Lightly flour a work surface. Transfer the dough there and divide in half, patting each half into a disk. Wrap each one in plastic wrap and refrigerat­e for at least 30 minutes.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead into a tight mass then divide in half and pat each half into a disk. Wrap each disk in plastic and refrigerat­e for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Re-flour the work surface as needed. Unwrap one disk of dough and roll out to a rectangle with a thickness of 1/ 8- inch. Use a sharp knife or fluted pastry wheel to cut 1-inch squares, then use a skewer to poke a hole at the center of each one.

Transfer to the baking sheets, spacing the squares at least 1/ 4 inch apart. Refrigerat­e for 15 minutes; repeat with the second portion of dough. Scraps can be re-rolled.

Sprinkle the unbaked crackers lightly with kosher salt. Bake each sheet one at a time (middle rack) for 16 to 18 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Transfer the crackers to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

Make Ahead: The dough needs to be refrigerat­ed for at least 30 minutes, and up to 1 day. The rolled-and-cut cracker dough needs to be refrigerat­ed for 15 minutes. The baked crackers can be stored in an airtight container at room temperatur­e for up to 1 week.

Servings: Tested size: 5 servings; makes 80 to 90 small crackers.

Recipe source: From cookbook author and TheKitchn. com founder Sara Kate Gillingham. Tested by Jessica Weissman.

HOMEMADE GUMMIES

About the sweetness of these candies, if a juice is sweet enough to drink, it's sweet enough for a gummy snack, but you might feel differentl­y. Cranberry juice, for example, is typically pre- sweetened, so why would you add sugar? But experiment and see what works best.

They are not quite as firm/ rubbery as commercial­ly made gummy bears, and less sweet.

A little science: Pineapple, mango, papaya, guava, ginger and figs all contain an enzyme that can prevent the gelatin from solidifyin­g, so if you're using juices containing those, boil the juice first, then whisk in the gelatin. You can use a silicone candy mold or an 8-inch square glass baking dish and some small cookie/candy cutters.

These were made using apple juice, which produced a mild flavor, and grape juice, which yielded more flavor. The optional honey was added in.

Ingredient­s:

Vegetable or liquefied coconut oil 2 cups pure apple juice or grape juice (see headnote) 2 tablespoon­s honey or maple syrup (optional; see headnote) 4 tablespoon­s unflavored powdered gelatin ( from more than one 1-ounce box)

Directions:

Use a little oil — not too much — to grease the molds or baking dish.

Combine the juice and honey or maple syrup, if using, in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once a few bubbles begin to appear at the edges, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface and then whisk it in quickly until smooth, making sure no clumps form.

Pour the gummy mixture into the silicone candy mold or the baking dish. Refrigerat­e for at least 2 hours, until the mixture sets. Then the gummies will be ready to be popped out of the silicone mold, or gently coaxed out of the glass baking dish onto a cutting board to be cut into small squares or other shapes.

Make Ahead: The gummy mixture needs to be refrigerat­ed for at least 2 hours to set. The gummies can be refrigerat­ed in airtight container for up to 3 days.

Where to Buy: Silicone candy molds are available at craft stores and through various online purveyors.

Servings: 8-12 servings; cups makes about 400 3/4inch gummies.

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 ?? John McDonnell/The Washington Post ?? ABOVE: Homemade Cheez-its. BELOW LEFT: Homemade Gummies. BELOW RIGHT: Dark chocolate and sea salt bars.
John McDonnell/The Washington Post ABOVE: Homemade Cheez-its. BELOW LEFT: Homemade Gummies. BELOW RIGHT: Dark chocolate and sea salt bars.
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