// HE’S AR­RIVED!

CHEF SPI E GJERDE POL­ISHES UP HIS LO­CA­VORE CUI­SINE AT A RA E’S PROGRESS.

Capitol File - - CONTENTS - BY TIM EBNER

Chef Spike Gjerde pol­ishes up his lo­ca­vore cui­sine at A Rake’s Progress.

Where’s Spike Gjerde? Prob­a­bly run­ning to catch a train from Union Sta­tion to his home­town of Bal­ti­more. In Au­gust, the James Beard Award–win­ning chef opens his first DC res­tau­rant, A Rake’s Progress, in­side The Line Ho­tel in Adams Mor­gan. But for years, Gjerde’s DC devo­tees drove an hour north to eat at his crit­i­cally ac­claimed restau­rants Wood­berry Kitchen and All Pur­pose. Known for serv­ing rus­tic dishes in a barn­like set­ting, his lat­est res­tau­rant is a bit of a de­par­ture.

How is this res­tau­rant dif­fer­ent from your Bal­ti­more spots? “The space is so spec­tac­u­lar and dif­fer­ent, and our cook­ing truly re­flects the set­ting. We’re def­i­nitely adding pol­ish to our dishes, and we’re us­ing a wood-fired hearth that’s per­fect for spit-roast­ing small game. This menu fea­tures lo­cally sourced duck, quail, chicken, and rab­bit.” What’s the dish you’re most ex­cited about? “It’s hard to pick just one. In gen­eral, I’m ex­cited to present lo­cally sourced in­gre­di­ents from farms around the Ch­e­sa­peake re­gion. For in­stance, our roasted rab­bit is full of fla­vor be­cause our Vir­ginia farmer takes great pride in rais­ing them.” Tell us more about the space. “The res­tau­rant has th­ese beau­ti­ful vaulted ceil­ings from what was once a church. This is my first res­tau­rant with a full-ser­vice raw bar. We’re also in great com­pany: My friend Erik Bruner-Yang is do­ing food and bev­er­age in the down­stairs lobby with two restau­rants, Broth­ers and Sis­ters and Spo­ken English.” 1770 Eu­clid St. NW, 202-8644190; arake­spro­gressdc.com

tith dishes like this rock­fish chow­der with corn, pota­toes, and salt pork, chef Spike djerde (BE­LOW) of­fers high-qual­ity rus­tic cook­ing in a new, lush set­ting.

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