Great Japanese fare at Dayton’s Yamato

I have never really been a big fan of the hibachi shows at Japanese restaurants, finding them to be more of an intrusion on conversation and often covering up lackluster food. I love Japanese food, and I love to find new places to enjoy it.

When I stopped by Yamato Japanese Steakhouse at 2668 Rhea County Highway in Dayton, Tenn., I didn’t know what to expect. No hibachi tables here, but the restaurant serves some of the best Japanese food in the area. I came out a fan, a really full, happy fan.

THE SPACE

Yamato sits in front of the Holiday Inn Express on the southern outskirts of Dayton. The restaurant is spacious, which lends a relaxed, roomy feel devoid of loud interruptions. The owners have decorated with a few Japanese-themed items, but only just enough to remind diners where they are. The sushi bar greets patrons as they walk in past the lobby, and well-spaced tables and booths are spread throughout, which lends itself to a more intimate atmosphere.

THE MENU

The sushi menu is extensive, ranging from vegetarian rolls like avocado, cucumber and sweet potato, to traditional picks such as tuna, salmon and shrimp. Yamato also offers sashimi, a Japanese delicacy consisting of very fresh raw meat or fish sliced into thin pieces, and specialty rolls such as its deep-fried volcano roll.

Also on the menu is hibachi salmon, scallops and shrimp. For those who want more turf than surf, Yamato sports a full hibachi menu with chicken, New York strip, beef tips and filet mignon.

THE ORDER

To start, we tried the shumai ($3.99), six pieces of fish dumpling. It was flavorful and a great way to kick off a satisfying meal.

I went with the hibachi New York › Price range: strip for $ 7.99, which was even better than I expected. The steak was tender and almost melted in my mouth. The grill imparted a deep flavor, and it was marinated just enough to bring out the best in the steak. Since I was ordering off the lunch menu, my order came with a salad, fried rice and steamed broccoli.

The white sauce was a little bit spicier than other places offer, which I enjoyed. However, I missed having a mustard sauce for my steak.

My dining companion went with the sushi, opting for a light and flavorful avocado roll.

For diners who want the best of both worlds, Yamato serves bento boxes all day. My son opted for the beef teriyaki bento box ($9.99), which included a salad, a California roll, spring roll and fried rice. The teriyaki sauce is rich, thick and one of the best in the area.

Customers also can order chicken, salmon, shrimp or scallop bento boxes, or a combo of chicken, beef and shrimp.

THE VERDICT

I would put Yamato up against Japanese restaurant in larger cities. While some diners might miss the hibachi show, I like to focus on the flavors of Japanese food, and Yamato doesn’t disappoint. I will be back the next time I crave something off the hibachi. •••

PHOTOS BY GILBERT STRODE Bento boxes are served all day at Yamato Japanese Steakhouse in Dayton, Tenn. This beef teriyaki version includes a salad, California roll, spring roll and fried rice.

Yamato’s avocado roll is light and tasty.