Solarium Lounge at Dwell Hotel a cool place

As dining options in and around Chattanooga continue to improve, The Solarium at The Dwell Hotel is the newest addition to the food scene.

Located on 10th Street, it’s pretty much in the heart of things, but feels like an oasis. That’s because it doesn’t face a major thoroughfare and because the decor is so different. It’s midcentury modern design makes it feel as though you’ve traveled to a different time and place.

In addition to The Solarium, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner fare all day, there is the Matilda Midnight bar on the other side of the lobby.

I decided to go for lunch last week, and then returned for breakfast. Officially, I went twice because I like to be thorough when I review a place. Unofficially, I went back because it’s a cool place, it’s within walking distance of the office and it was good.

THE MENU

It’s a fairly diverse menu, especially considering its allday approach. There are sandwiches, salads, entrees, sides, plates for sharing, small plates and breakfast items. Each category has five or six items, but they are different enough to keep things interesting.

Salads, for example, include Sprout & Edamame ($8), Shrimp & Bibb ($14) and Ambrosia ($9).

For breakfast, the Dwell Benedict ($10) features country ham, poached egg, arugula and hollandaise on an English muffin. The waffles ($7 and $9) can be slathered in syrup or butter, served with compote, hash browns, bacon, scallions, egg or cheese.

I got the omelette with scallions, spinach, cheddar cheese and mushrooms. It was pretty darn near perfect. The eggs were light and fluffy; and the mushrooms had just the right texture and flavor. I got a side of strawberries and blueberries and a hot cup of English tea, because it just seemed like the right thing to order in such a place.

For lunch, I went with the chicken sandwich ($7) because owner Seija Ojanpera said it had become a popular dish since the restaurant underwent a restart a few weeks ago.

The sandwich featured Springer Mountain chicken breast, pickled carrots, arugula, red onion and curry aioli on sourdough bread. The curry paired beautifully with everything else. It’s not a big sandwich, which is fine, so I got the Terra Root Veggie Chips ($4).

Other sandwich choices include the Midnight Burger ($12) with truffle aioli, bacon, cheddar cheese and green tomato pickle; Falafel ($8) with tzatziki, olives, greens and tomato on naan; and a Veggie Panini ($9) with eggplant, zuc- chini, mushrooms, red pepper aioli and smoked mozzarella.

The Small Plates section offers Mushroom Crusted Cauliflower ($14) with shiitake mushrooms, orzo, sun-dried tomatoes and peas; Miso Glazed Salmon ($17) with rice cake, carrot and edamame; and Duck Confit ($17) with thigh and leg, minted pea puree and charred root vegetables. The only reason I didn’t get either of those on my first visit was I didn’t see them until after making a quick decision on the chicken sandwich.

The Crispy Duck Eggrolls ($10) and Matilda’s Smorgasbord ($20) with its assortment of seasonal accompaniments and charcuterie and cheeses look appealing as well. And they have Cashew Kale Dip. Gotta have kale on the menu.

Sides include sausage from Main Street Meats ($6), fries ($3), berries with yogurt ($5) and potato hash ($2).

THE SPACE

If it gives you any indication, Dave Brubeck’s “Take Five” was playing on the PA when I went for breakfast. Cool jazz in a cool space. Bench seating with big soft cushions line the walls, while deep comfy chairs fitting the midcentury modern theme complete the seating. There is a small bar seating area adjacent to a slightly larger area. Small tables run the length of the outdoor patio.

Several tables were occupied by hotel guests in town for a workshop or conference, while a business meeting occupied another. It’s not a big space, so probably not conducive for large gatherings. But you’re not going to take the ball team to a place like this after a game anyway, are you?

It’s more suited for a nice date, a small business meeting or lunch when you want something nice.

THE SERVICE

The staff during both visits were knowledgeable and helpful without being intrusive.

THE VERDICT

I had not been to The Dwell for some reason prior to my visits. That’s my fault. Not theirs. I liked the quality and the variety of the menu and plan to try several of the items soon.

PHOTO BY BARRY COURTER The chicken sandwich stacks chicken breast, pickled carrots, arugula, red onion and curry aioli on sourdough bread.