Chattanooga Times Free Press - ChattanoogaNow
Stack adds to Cleveland’s downtown scene
I appreciate seeing an aging, depreciating building transformed into a useful, productive space again. It shows civic pride, vision and, in the case of Stack Southern Bistro in Cleveland, Tennessee, it gives the restaurant an ambiance that separates it from being just another burger joint.
I had heard of Stack’s opening last fall and had been meaning to check it out. When a recent Facebook post claimed that Stack’s Gouda mac and cheese “could change your life,” I made a drive to Cleveland.
THE SPACE
When the owners of Stack were preparing to open their new burger joint in downtown Cleveland, they chose to renovate an old Ford dealership on First Street. It’s a two- story brick building that looks as though it could have been a warehouse. As a nod to the building’s original purpose, glass roll- up garage doors were installed across the front of the restaurant at street level.
The interior space is open, airy, with lots of natural lighting from those roll-up doors. The walls are exposed brick; the floor is the original concrete. The modern industrial decor is carried out in high, open ceilings with exposed ductwork.
Pine-top tables are spaced around the L-shaped dining area with booths lining the walls, the latter divided for privacy by high pine backs.
The adjacent bar offers more than 120 bourbons, scotches and whiskeys as well as almost 30 types of rum. Or guests might want to sip a craft beer while watching big-screen TVs in the bar.
The building’s second floor has been converted into apartments.
THE MENU
While the house specialty is hamburgers, the menu also lists Cobb and house salads, nine appetizers, chili, a soup of the day, sandwich of the day and club sandwich. A daily special is served Monday through Friday, such as chicken casserole, meatloaf or fried catfish. The special includes two sides for $10.99. Everything else is a la carte.
A dozen hamburgers are offered, ranging from the standard Stack Cheeseburger ($7.95) to the Bless Your Heart Burger, which includes hickory-smoked ground beef, Benton’s bacon and country ham, stuffed with cheddar cheese ($10). The Tree Hugger is Stack’s veggie burger dressed with butter lettuce and mayo ($10.95), and there is a turkey burger with habanero cheese, avocado, butter lettuce, tomato and mayo ($8.95). Gluten-free buns ($1 extra) and lettuce wraps are available for the asking.
THE ORDER
I ordered The Frenchman, a burger topped with caramelized onions and Gruyere cheese. Stack’s buns are made in-house and branded with the Stack logo, a clever gimmick that creates a signature style.
The big, two-hander hamburger’s 6-ounce patty came cooked to order, with a nice sear on the outside but still juicy. There was a sufficient amount of onions so as to be flavorful, but not overwhelming. I would have preferred a little more Gruyere on the burger, but the amount of Gouda on the mac and cheese made up for that lack.
The Gouda mac and cheese was good-a. The smoky, melted cheese gave a robust flavor to the side dish, and the use of large elbow pasta soaked up the cheese inside and out. Was it life-changing? No, but definitely worth $2.99.
THE SERVICE
The staff was friendly, proudly answering my question about the space’s former use and renovation. My server was courteous and attentive, checking back three times to make sure I was a satisfied diner. Service was prompt and efficient with only a 10-minute wait for my meal.
THE VERDICT
I see Stack being an affordable, popular hangout for Lee University students — the campus is just three blocks away — as well as a great date- night spot for all ages. It’s a good meal, but not destination dining for Chattanoogans. However, should I be in Cleveland again, I would definitely return.