Farro salad stars asparagus

The overnight sensation takes time. Consider farro.

The chewy grain turns up everywhere. It stars in soup, salad and sweet. It doubles for rice, for barley, for pasta. It poses in the spring salad bristling with asparagus and fennel, Insta-glam.

But farro is no flash in the pan. The ancient form of wheat has been sustaining soldiers for thousands of years. Uncooked, the lightbrown nubs once served as coin. Stockpiled, it counted as treasure. Simmered, it’s bolstered generations of Italians.

With good reason. Farro is delicious, wholesome and hearty. And, unlike many a celebrity, worthy of its newfound fame. 1 cup farro

Kosher salt

8 spears asparagus,

trimmed and peeled 3⁄4 cup finely sliced fennel

(bulb and fronds)

1⁄4 cup finely sliced

shallots

1⁄4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons freshly

squeezed lemon juice Freshly ground black

pepper

4 ounces baby arugula 1 ounce Parmesan cheese

Soak: For farro in the hull, cover with cold water, stir once and let soak, 25 minutes. Drain and rinse. For hulled or “pearled” farro, skip the soak.

Plump: Drain the farro, and scoop into a medium saucepan. Add 2 cups cold water and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer until tender (like rice), about 30 minutes.

Simmer: Meanwhile, settle asparagus in a wide skillet. Cover with cool water. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Simmer until bright green and crisp/tender, about 8 minutes. Drain. Spread out asparagus on a clean kitchen towel to cool. Roll up to dry. Cut into 1-inch lengths.

Marinate: In a large serving bowl, toss together asparagus, fennel, shallots, 1⁄4 cup olive oil and the lemon juice. Season with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Toss: Scrape cooked farro into the serving bowl and toss. Let rest, 10 minutes. Add arugula and toss. Add salt if you like. Using a vegetable peeler, carve on curls of Parmesan. Enjoy at room temperature.