Chattanooga Times Free Press

El Jinete: Good Mexican food that won’t break the family budget

- BY SUSAN PIERCE STAFF WRITER

Drivers along Little Debbie Parkway in Ooltewah know that once you’ve passed Walmart, there is little else along that road until you reach the intersecti­on with Apison Pike in Collegedal­e.

In one of the parkway’s two strip centers is a small restaurant space. At least two restaurant­s have come and gone there — most likely due to its low-profile location off Lee Highway’s main drag. El Jinete Mexican Restaurant opened in spring 2016, but we didn’t notice it until just recently.

However, word is slowly spreading through social media and word of mouth that there is good food there for reasonable prices.

THE SPACE El Jinete translates to “the horseman,” and you’ll find a caballero astride a rearing black stallion painted into the wall mural inside the restaurant.

The one-room dining space is small with 12 upholstere­d high-back booths and six tables. Its most distinguis­hing feature is a 6-foot-tall, stackedsto­ne wall that partitions the room into two halves.

A shaded patio with six to eight tables wraps around the southern corner of the restaurant that will provide enjoyable al fresco dining this fall. There are seven El Jinete Mexican Restaurant­s in Georgia cities surroundin­g Atlanta, and one in Athens, Tenn., on Congress Parkway. The Ooltewah location is its first in Chattanoog­a.

THE MENU El Jinete’s menu is huge. Seriously, a diner could order something different every day and not repeat himself the rest of the year.

There are nine burrito choices, seven steak entrees, 10 vegetarian offerings, 17 seafood choices, innumerabl­e fajita and chimichang­a suggestion­s, appetizers, salads and a kids menu. Then there is a list of 25 combinatio­n possibilit­ies all priced at $8.99. The menu’s color photos make decisions easier.

THE MEAL I asked about the house specialty, which our waitress didn’t know, but she did say the fajitas and shrimp tacos are the best-sellers. The seafood lover in me immediatel­y gravitated to shrimp tacos. My son and his wife chose chicken enchilada/taco combo plates. Their two preschoole­rs picked hot dogs and fries off the children’s menu, which turned out to be servings large enough to make an adult meal.

Diners are served compliment­ary chips and salsa when seated. The salsa was thin for our taste, more like a tomato sauce. So we ordered queso, and the cheese dip lived up to expectatio­ns.

When my tacos arrived, three flour tortillas were served containing four grilled shrimp each, along with sides of coleslaw, pico de gallo and seasoned rice. When I took a bite of the pico, it bit back with heat that was too fiery for my preference.

The soft tacos by themselves were just “meh,” but when the creamy coleslaw was added, it created a flavor burst that will bring me back again. Our waitress wouldn’t divulge what was in that slaw, only that it was homemade each morning

The combo plates held large enchiladas packed with pulled chicken sauteed in onions and peppers, rolled into a tortilla and smothered in red sauce. Although they were visually more appealing than the beef taco, it was the taco my son raved about.

The shell was filled with a thick layer of seasoned beef, shredded lettuce and queso fresco. He deemed it the best, most flavorful taco he’d ever eaten. Entrees also came with large servings of seasoned rice.

We sampled cinnamon-sweet sopapillas and creamy Mini Chimi Raspberry Cheesecake­s for dessert, both served with

 ?? PHOTOS BY SUSAN PIERCE ?? Four grilled shrimp are served in each of three tacos with sides of homemade coleslaw, pico de gallo and rice.
PHOTOS BY SUSAN PIERCE Four grilled shrimp are served in each of three tacos with sides of homemade coleslaw, pico de gallo and rice.
 ??  ?? The enchilada/taco combo plate includes tortillas filled with a hefty serving of pulled chicken sauteed in onions and peppers and smothered in red sauce.
The enchilada/taco combo plate includes tortillas filled with a hefty serving of pulled chicken sauteed in onions and peppers and smothered in red sauce.

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