Chattanooga Times Free Press

CHICKEN MILANESE HAS ITS MOMENT

- BY MELISSA CLARK

It’s an excellent moment for cutlets Milanese. Made from veal, chicken or pork coated in fine breadcrumb­s or flaky panko, they seem to be showing up everywhere, in variations satisfying and classic, thrilling and new.

I’ve sampled the chuletas (breaded and fried pork tenderloin) at Mita’s in Cincinnati, where I dunked slices in guacamole as if they were the meatiest of chips.

In New York, you can get pork collar Milanese with aioli and apricot mostarda at Simon and the Whale, or an olive relish-topped chicken rendition, covered in arugula, at Monkey Bar, where my colleague David Tanis is the chef.

More traditiona­lly, though, at old-school Italian restaurant­s, bone-in veal chops are pounded until wide enough to flop over the sides of a dinner plate, then fried until shattering­ly crisp. As long as the breading is brittle and

“I prefer chicken because it’s leaner. The fried crumbs already add plenty of richness.” DAVID TANIS, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT MONKEY BAR IN NEW YORK

the meat tender and well seasoned, you can’t go wrong.

This recipe was inspired by the one served at Café Altro Paradiso in SoHo. There, chef Ignacio Mattos uses panko for a particular­ly airy, feathery crunch around the juicy meat.

His choice of chicken over the more traditiona­l veal or pork also nudges the dish toward lightness.

“I prefer chicken because it’s leaner,” he said. “The fried crumbs already add plenty of richness.”

I followed his lead, using chicken breasts pounded thin, and panko, which I mixed with grated Parmesan for complexity. Then, I concocted a caprese-inspired salad from ripe cherry tomatoes tossed with garlic-basil oil and cubes of milky mozzarella as a topping, instead of arugula or other leafy greens.

Mattos approved, particular­ly of the Parmesan in the crust, which he’d had in some of the many versions he ate while growing up in Uruguay.

“I have an Italian heritage,” he said. “In Uruguay and Argentina, the Italian influence in cooking is very strong. I wouldn’t be surprised if more Milanese was eaten there per capita than anywhere else in the world.”

For him, a Milanese sandwich — a cold, fried cutlet stuffed into a roll with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise — is the perfect comfort food. It’s what he craves, late at night after work, when he’ll stop to pick one up from a little place on his way home.

“It’s a little like pizza,” he said. “Even when it’s bad, it’s still really good.”

Chicken Milanese With Tomato, Mozzarella and Basil Salad

Yield: 4 to 6 servings Total time: 45 minutes 1 1⁄2 pounds chicken cutlets, pounded 1⁄4inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed 2⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive

oil

2⁄3 cup basil leaves

1 fat garlic clove, finely

grated or minced 1 pound cherry or grape

tomatoes, halved 8 ounces fresh mozzarella,

cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces 1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, beaten

1 1⁄4 cups panko bread

crumbs

1⁄4 cup grated Parmesan 4 tablespoon­s extra-virgin

olive oil

2 tablespoon­s unsalted

butter

Lemon wedges, for serving

Lightly season chicken cutlets all over with salt and pepper; let rest while you make the basil oil.

In a blender or food processor, combine oil, basil, garlic and salt to taste; purée until smooth.

In a medium bowl, toss tomatoes and mozzarella with about half of the basil oil and salt to taste. Set

aside.

Place flour in a shallow bowl or plate. Pour eggs into another shallow dish; combine panko and Parmesan in a third dish.

In a large skillet, melt oil and butter over medium heat. As it heats, dip a chicken cutlet in flour, shake off excess, then dip in eggs. Shake off excess, then dip both sides in panko mixture and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining cutlets.

When oil is hot, fry 2 cutlets at a time until bottoms are golden, about 3 minutes. Flip and fry until golden and crispy all over, about another 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle immediatel­y with salt.

Taste tomato-mozzarella salad and add more salt and/or basil oil if needed. Serve cutlets topped with a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of remaining basil oil and tomato-mozzarella salad.

 ?? ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? This Chicken Milanese, a lighter version of the usual fried veal cutlets, is topped with juicy tomatoes, basil and milky bits of mozzarella.
ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES This Chicken Milanese, a lighter version of the usual fried veal cutlets, is topped with juicy tomatoes, basil and milky bits of mozzarella.
 ?? ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Tomato and mozzarella salad is the perfect accompanim­ent to Chicken Milanese.
ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES Tomato and mozzarella salad is the perfect accompanim­ent to Chicken Milanese.

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