Chattanooga Times Free Press

THIS PIE LETS PEAK STRAWBERRI­ES SHINE BRIGHT

- BY SAMANTHA SENEVIRATN­E

Strawberri­es may grace the supermarke­t produce aisle all year round, but the juicy, brightly colored varieties that come around in late May and June are almost a different species, altogether soft and delicate and needing to be devoured as quickly as possible. You can smell their floral, candylike aroma at the market before even laying eyes on them.

Still, all strawberri­es have a place in the kitchen. The key is to know which to use when. Out-ofseason berries are great for baked pies and cakes, since cooking or macerating them concentrat­es their flavor. But those in-season beauties are best used gently, in applicatio­ns that accentuate their essence with as little heat and manipulati­on as possible.

That’s why, when strawberri­es are at their peak, it’s time to make a fresh strawberry pie.

This one starts with an easy, press-in cookie crust. Using storebough­t shortbread minimizes the amount of time the oven has to be on in the summer, and the buttery cookies create a pairing reminiscen­t of strawberry shortcake. Keep in mind that some brands of shortbread have more sugar than others and may require a little less sweetener in the crust mixture. Graham crackers or chocolate wafers would be nice, too.

Inside is simply a mixture of fresh, quartered strawberri­es and a quick jam of cooked strawberri­es, strawberry preserves and cornstarch. Some recipes rely on strawberry gelatin to hold it all together, but, here, real strawberry is the star: The preserves help bind the filling, while adding even more fruit flavor. A quarter-cup of cornstarch

may seem like a lot, but you’ll need it with those height-of-season gushers to ensure that the final dessert is sliceable. (Deepdish fruit pies made with strawberri­es may taste good, but they can cascade like a burst dam when sliced.)

Finished with a cloud of lightly sweetened, freshly whipped cream, this pie is a sight to behold. All in all, its simplicity makes fresh strawberry pie so special. The fruit has been gussied up, but only enough to allow it to shine.

Fresh Strawberry Pie

This pie is a celebratio­n of perfectly ripe, summertime strawberri­es. Only two cups of the berries are cooked down into a quick jam, which holds the rest of the fruit together for a delightful­ly fresh pie. With a crunchy shortbread crust and a cloud of freshly whipped cream, it’s reminiscen­t of strawberry shortcake — but maybe even better.

Total time: 45 minutes, plus chilling

Yield: 8 to 10 servings For the crust:

10 2/3 ounces shortbread cookies (two 5 1/3ounce packages)

3 tablespoon­s granulated sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

2 1/2 pounds strawberri­es (8 to 10 cups), hulled

1/3 cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoon­s strawberry

preserves 1/4 cup cornstarch Pinch of kosher salt 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

For the topping:

1 cup cold heavy cream 1 tablespoon powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)

Prepare crust: Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor, combine shortbread cookies, sugar, flour and salt, and blend until you have fine crumbs. Transfer crumbs to a medium mixing bowl. Add butter, and mix with a fork until crumbs are evenly moistened. Tip crumbs into a standard 9-inch pie plate, and press them in an even layer on the bottom and up the sides of the plate. Bake until golden brown and set, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

Prepare filling: Cut each of the strawberri­es in quarters or eighths, if they are large. Transfer 2 cups berries to a small saucepan, and crush completely with a potato masher. Set aside the remaining berries in a large bowl. Add the sugar, preserves, cornstarch, 1 tablespoon water and salt to the saucepan.

Bring strawberry mixture to a boil over medium heat, and then cook it an additional 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add strawberry mixture and lemon juice to the strawberri­es in the bowl, and stir to combine. Transfer to the prepared crust, and gently tap it down into an even layer. Transfer to the fridge to set for at least 4 hours.

Just before serving, whip cream, powdered sugar and vanilla, if using, to soft peaks. Top pie with whipped cream.

 ?? LINDA XIAO/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? A crunchy shortbread crust and a cloud of freshly whipped cream make this fresh strawberry pie reminiscen­t of strawberry shortcake.
LINDA XIAO/THE NEW YORK TIMES A crunchy shortbread crust and a cloud of freshly whipped cream make this fresh strawberry pie reminiscen­t of strawberry shortcake.
 ?? GETTY IMAGE ??
GETTY IMAGE

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