Wild turkey
Storefront Company’s ‘Our Thanksgiving’ turns the traditional meal on its head
‘Freedom from Want,” Norman Rockwell’s famed Thanksgiving painting, is the centerpiece of the Art Institute’s just-opened “Art and Appetite” exhibit. The iconic picture is the epitome of a traditional Thanksgiving: A grandmotherly figure sets a huge bird before a jubilant family. And while most of us eagerly anticipate timehonored favorites like turkey, cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes, sometimes traditional Thanksgiving can be a little too predictable.
That’s why some of Chicago’s most innovative chefs are crafting menus that reflect the tone of the holiday while dramatically varying the standard formula. One in particular,
Bryan Moscatello of Storefront Company, is serving an alternative Thanksgiving menu, entitled “Our Thanksgiving,” through Dec. 9. “Thanksgiving items need updating, as does the notion of gorging yourself into a comatose state,” says Moscatello. “‘Our Thanksgiving’ is the way I’d like to eat Thanksgiving dinner, which is all about the harvest and not just a huge meal.” Curious? Here’s a little more about the meal:
Chef stats: Moscatello trained at Spiaggia and Bistro 110 before relocating to Washington D.C. and Denver, where he was named one of Food & Wine magazine’s 2003 Best New Chefs in America. Recently, he helped Storefront Company earn Bib Gourmand recognition from the Michelin Guide.
Vibe: Owner Steve Harris describes the atmosphere as “refined and approachable, hip and serious,” an appropriate ambiance for the spot’s unique twist on homestyle cooking. A bar faces the kitchen for those who want to see dinner prepared, and a private space tucked behind a screen offers more intimate dining.
Must-try-dishes:
The Thanksgiving tasting menu ($99) is billed as “modern farm cuisine,” striking a balance between innovation and comfort. Here are some highlights:
• Partridge. Though often associated with the 12 days of Christmas, partridge replaces turkey on Moscatello’s menu. “We’re using Scottish partridge,” says Moscatello. “It’s more of a wild animal, more robust than your typical partridge.” Served in a sausage of tender neck meat, the partridge is complemented by tempura offal and seasonally appropriate rutabaga.
• Rabbit. Delicate cuts of heart and kidney accompany the rabbit loin, which Moscatello tops with Madeira mousse and a light sauce to add a fine-dining flourish.
• Oysters. Lightly smoked oysters are capped with pickled ramp foam, the wild onions that gave Chicago its name (“Shikaakwa,” the Native American word for “wild onion,” eventually became “Chicago”).
• Liverot. This faintly pungent Norman cheese has chunks of black walnut and bourbon that, cheekily, look a lot like stuffing. Drink up: Sommelier John Dalesandro pairs wines ($69) with Moscatello’s alternative Thanksgiving dishes, and in the spirit of pushing boundaries, he won’t rely upon traditional Chardonnay or Beaujolais. For more robust courses, Dalesandro suggests Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, “wines with minerality, finesse and character to finish but not overpower the food.” Dalesandro can also recommend by-theglass selections. “Everything we do,” he says, “has the chef ’s food in mind.”