Chicago Sun-Times

Airline food is getting better. No, really.

U.S. carriers offering greater variety and fresher fare

- Charisse Jones

Bad airline food has long been a cliché. But as airports increasing­ly roll out higher-end eateries, airlines, too, are upping their game, at least for premium passengers.

U.S. carriers are revamping their domestic flight menus, enlisting renowned chefs and harvesting fresher ingredient­s to present fliers with better options for a healthy meal.

In November, Delta doubled the first-class menu items it offers on short-haul domestic flights. Alaska Airlines’ economy passengers can buy a Vietnamese bánh mi sandwich as well as other bites that reflect the multi-ethnic flavor of its Seattle home.

United launched menu items such as duck confit ravioli along with its new premium service between Newark and San Francisco and Los Angeles. And American is incorporat­ing seasonal veggies to cater to health conscious customers traveling on transconti­nental flights.

The improvemen­ts aren’t going unnoticed.

“Passenger ratings for the variety of airline food have risen significan­tly since 2012,” says Rick Garlick, global travel and hospitalit­y practice lead at J.D. Power. While on-time performanc­e and a clean jet are basics that passengers value and expect, he says, food can be a positive way to stand out from the pack. “It can be the next big differenti­ator for the airline experience.”

Dean Headley, associate professor of marketing at Wichita state University and co-author of the annual Airline Quality Rating, says that the menu upgrades may signal that the pendulum is swinging back toward the days before compliment­ary meals in coach virtually disappeare­d. They’re also a way to appease frustrated fliers.

“The flying public still isn’t happy,” Headley says. “So maybe food is one way they can say, ‘here’s a tangible plus.’ At least it’s one less thing the traveler has to worry about.”

Delta is making its domestic first class offerings more healthful and varied, going from roughly a dozen to 24 different options on flights that travel between 900 and 1,499 miles. Among the possible entrees: grilled shrimp with roasted corn and tomato salad, or lemongrass chicken with Japanese Cobb salad.

“Essentiall­y, if you are a frequent flier with us, it will be several months before you would have a duplicate meal,” says Delta spokesman Michael Thomas.

Coach is not being left out. Delta offers compliment­ary snacks from nutritious food purveyor Luvo in all cabins on its West Coast shuttle, and free Luvo wraps to “comfort plus’’ passengers paying for extra leg room in economy on transconti­nental flights from New York to San Francisco and Los Angeles.

Next year also will bring tweaks to first class menus on longer haul domestic flights, and eventually enhancemen­ts to food items that are for sale as well.

“When we talk to customers, it’s changes like the ones we’re making now, to provide more healthful, more tasteful, more varied food ... that are moving the needle,” Thomas says.

In July, American unveiled options incorporat­ing seasonal vegetables and inspired by renowned restaurate­ur Sam Choy on firstclass flights between Miami and Los Angeles and New York JFK to Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Menus in domestic first-class cabins on other routes added such favorites as beef filet, shrimp and grits, and macaroni and cheese.

“We know our customers eating habits have been evolving and it’s one way we can be competitiv­e,” says Barbara DeLollis, a spokeswoma­n for American Airlines.

Airlines are paying attention to even the smaller details.

Virgin America began working with gourmet grocer Dean & Deluca this summer to provide snacks such as spicy Cajun snack mix and raw almonds. United is using only cagefree eggs in economy class entrees on domestic and internatio­nal flights leaving from U.S. airports.

And in October, JetBlue unveiled its own blue-potato farm and garden at JFK’s Terminal Five, with one aim being to use the crops to make the TERRA Blues chips it serves in flight.

Headley isn’t certain, however, that if you build a better menu, customers will necessaril­y come.

“I don’t think the consumer is going to start flocking back to an airline because of the quality of the food,” he says. “The fact that they now have it, I think a lot of people will think ‘it’s about (darn) time.’ ”

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