WINEREVIEW: WINE California vineyard topping the Cabernet charts,
U. S. wineries continued to expand and grow between 2016 and 2017, topping 9,100 wineries with a corresponding 3 percent increase in annual wine sales, according to data recently published in Wines and Vine. Yet, from what I have observed, iconic wines, those that are widely known and acknowledged especially for distinctive excellence, are less abundant.
Iconic wines and their producers have proven their worth over time, showing consistency and greatness for decades— and in some cases more than a century. Included in this worldly lineup are Chateau Lafite Rothschild from Bordeaux, France, Penfolds Grange from Australia, Domaine de la Romanee- Conti from Burgundy, France, Giacomo Conterno Barolos from Italy and BeaulieuVineyards from Napa Valley, California.
Beaulieu Vineyards “BV,” which is marking its 117th anniversary, was founded by Frenchman Georges de Latour in 1900. When de Latour’s wife, Fernande, first observed a 4- acre parcel in Napa’s Rutherford appellation in 1899, she described it as “beau lieu,” or “a beautiful place.” A few years later, an additional 127 acres were purchased. This vineyard would become the backbone of Beaulieu Vineyards flagship wine, Georges De Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.
Russian- born and French- educated research enologist André Tchelistcheff was recruited to direct the development of the vineyards andwinery from 1938 to 1973. His pioneering techniques in winemaking enhanced the worldwide recognition and visibility of Beaulieu’s wines while at the same time influencing the future direction of the California wine industry. He was affectionately known as “the Maestro.”
Beaulieu prospered throughout Prohibition, producing sacramental wine for the church. Afterward, with the release of the Georges De Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon under the stewardship of Tchelistcheff in 1938, Beaulieu’s fate as a producer of distinguished Cabernet Sauvignon was affirmed.
Joel Akin was an integral part of the Beaulieu winemaking team starting in 1982, followed by Jeff Stambor, who became part of this legacy in 1989. Stambor has 28 years of tenure perfecting his skills and the wines of Beaulieu. He said Tchelistcheff’s techniques still guide winemaking at Beaulieu.
“Immediate drinkability and long- term aging, that’s the holy grail,” said Stambor, who has optimized the vineyards with a focus on winemaking quality without interfering with the BV style.
I have a modest perspective of the evolution of Beaulieu Vineyards, having tasted their wines over the course of several decades. There is an inherent forward personality to these wines, characterized by rounded edges wrapped between layers of red berry fruits infused with spices. This reflects the essence of BeaulieuVineyards Cabernets, which seem to have transcended time.
As with any dream story, Beaulieu’s wines lagged at one point, losing some attention from those who preferred overextracted wines. Yet most will attest that under Stambor, Beaulieu wines have been elevated to a new level of prominence. The 2013 wines are some of the most memorable achievements from Beaulieu, showing the prototypical class that has allowed Beaulieu Vineyards to rise to the top of the Cabernet charts.
The 2013 BV Georges De Latour is a distinctive expression of the soils of the Rutherford Bench. This dreamy wine is extremely floral with violets and dusty elements. Stambor dialed in the quality of the tannins, leaving a core of finesse and velvety elegance. The more modestly priced 2013 Tapestry is a reserve style of Cabernet Sauvignon that is earlier drinking, and the Rutherford Cabernet is dense with elegantly compressed fruit.
Recently, Beaulieu introduced its luxury bottling of 2013 Rarity. Produced on only three occasions in Beaulieu’s history, it is sourced from the finest 10 percent of Cabernet Sauvignon used in the Georges de Latour. It is a culmination of Beaulieu’s early trials identifying elite clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. Described by wine writer Robert Parker Jr. as “flirting with perfection,” this is an epic wine. It casts an opaque shadow with elegant aromas, a precision of exotic fruits and complexities packaged within a sleek, silky frame. Encased in pure pleasure, this is an uncompromising and stunning effort.