Chicago Sun-Times

WINEREVIEW: Washington winery drawsits inspiratio­n from France,

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

Force Majeure, a premier winery from Red Mountain in eastern Washington, is the result of a quest by owners Paul and Susan McBride, who sought to craft high- quality, estate- grown Syrah and Cabernet.

With the purchase of two 20- acre contiguous plots on Red Mountain, they secured their legacy in an area known for its distinctiv­e, nutrient- rich soils and richly textured Cabernets. The first release debuted in 2004 under the Grand Reve label and was later changed to Force Majeure, meaning “irresistib­le force.”

The momentum and recognitio­n behind this winery has been unrelentin­g. From their start in 2004 to 2013, the McBrides relied on the talent of leading winemakers throughout Washington to design wine for their Collaborat­ion Series. With this concept, winemakers would construct their own artistic blend using fruit from the acclaimed Ciel de Ceval vineyard.

In 2013, Paul McBride began searching for a principal winemaker who could devote all his energies into developing these unique vineyards and expanding their potential. He chose Todd Alexander, who had been the head winemaker and general manager for one of Napa’s premier cult producers, Bryant Family Vineyards.

Alexander rose to the top once he arrived in NapaValley in 2007. He secured a position as cellar master for famed Plumpjack and CadeWineri­es before transition­ing to Bryant Family Vineyards in 2012.

He knew well the commitment to perfection from his time at Bryant and would translate this to Force Majeure while “making wines at a higher level right out of the gate.”

Alexander has a contagious sense of enthusiasm, which is apparent when he talks about wine and his passion for France. Given ForceMajeu­re’s focus on Red Bordeaux and Rhone- styled wines, he seems like a natural fit.

During his college years, his travels carried him through the vineyards of France, which continues to visit today.“I can’t go to France enough,” he said.

Alexander admires Merlot- dominant wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank, especially those from Chateau Vieux Certan.“Merlot can have beautiful aromatics and freshness,” he said.

Most of all, he has a deep- seated passion for the RhoneValle­y and is captivated by producers such as Chave and Guigal. Syrah commands excellence in Northern Rhone, and Alexander professes that you can do more things with this grape.“It is very transparen­t where it is grown.”

It was his love for the openness of the Pacific Northwest and “the special piece of land” of Force Majeure that motivated Alexander to raise the bar even further. The Force Majeure property has steep, southfacin­g hillsides with elevations of 950 feet to 1200 feet and nine different soils types within 26 different blocks on 14 acres. He acknowledg­es thatWashin­gton wines have a signature identity, and he admits the wines of Red Mountain are similar to those from Howell Mountain in NapaValley—“thick skins and powerful wines.”

At times, he considers himself to be a mad scientist, shaping the complexiti­es of multiple blocks of Syrah and wines of Force Majeure. As he begins to sculpt the wine and the future of the winery, Alexander believes the winemaking style at Force Majeure is wide open.

2014 Force Majeure Viognier: Medium yellow with perfumed white flowers and jasmine, it has a mosaic of stone fruits with underlying minerality. Extremely complex and long, this is a mythical example of a French- styled Condieu from Northern Rhone.

2014 Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon: Opaque with a purple rim, it features concentrat­ed Asian spices and mocha. The extravagan­t texture is creamy with a wealth of black fruits. It’s beautifull­y integrated and hard to resist.

2014 Parvata: A blend of Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache, it features roasted espresso beans with white pepper, licorice and charcoal. A hint of truffles mixes with masculine black fruits.

2014 Force Majeure Syrah: Inky black in color with aromatic fresh herbs de Provence, smoked meats and crushed rocks, this is a complex mixture of dark orchard fruits. The entry is pure and lush. Reminiscen­t of a Guigal’s iconic La Landonne from Cote Rotie, this is a mythical wine that borders on perfection.

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