Chicago Sun-Times

California wineries could face years of recovery

Repercussi­ons from stilluncon­tained fires could last years

- Marco della Cava and Elizabeth Weise @ marcodella­cava, @ eweise

California’s suntinged wine country is familiar with the life and death of the growing cycle, from green buds to purple grapes to dry, gnarled vines.

But the fires sweeping through three wine- growing counties have shaken this cycle to a core, with possible repercussi­ons for years to come.

As thousands of firefighte­rs try to contain 10 Northern California blazes, vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino counties are coming to grips with the damage and what they should do to rebuild — if they do.

“In terms of ( future) production, a lot of people will have to rebuild and replant, so we’re bound to see a bit of a ( grape)

shortage,” says Mary McAuley, founder of Ripe Life Wines in Healdsburg, which buys its grapes from vineyards in nearby Mendocino County.

She counts herself lucky that her winery managed to miss the flames incinerati­ng other parts of Sonoma County.

The region’s fires, some of which were still uncontaine­d Wednesday, have already claimed at least 21 lives and resulted in the destructio­n of 3,500 homes and businesses.

“But I think, longer term, a lot of people are going to bring in more technologi­es to protect against earthquake­s and fire damage now that they have to rebuild their facilities.”

Some may even choose not to rebuild, she said. Wine industry experts say that even if a winery’s vineyards remain standing, they face steep challenges as their employees struggle with burned or damaged homes. The region counts wine and tourism as top employers, and many workers who pick grapes or work in hotels may be compelled to move after losing everything.

Napa and Sonoma counties are home to around 900 wineries ( of 4,600 state- wide), with most boutique businesses making higher- end wines. The two counties represent 13% of the state’s output. And the state itself supplies 85% of the nation’s wine production, making it the fourth- largest producer of wines after Italy, France and Spain.

Northern California wine country is laced with mountains and valleys that partly determined which neighborho­ods and business got hit. A bigger factor were the winds, which whipped by at 60 mph or more, sealing the fate of anything in the fire’s path.

At least six wineries — Paradise Ridge, Paras Vineyards, Chateau St. Jean, Signorello Estate, Gundlach Bundschu and Hamel Family Wines — appear to have sustained varying amounts of damage.

 ?? ERIC RISBERG, AP ?? Burned bottles lay among the debris at Signorello Estate winery in Napa, Calif., on Tuesday.
ERIC RISBERG, AP Burned bottles lay among the debris at Signorello Estate winery in Napa, Calif., on Tuesday.
 ?? ERIC RISBERG, AP ??
ERIC RISBERG, AP
 ?? JOSH EDELSON/ GETTY IMAGES ?? Owner Rene Byck looks over remains of his Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa, California, Tuesday.
JOSH EDELSON/ GETTY IMAGES Owner Rene Byck looks over remains of his Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa, California, Tuesday.

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