Chicago Sun-Times

WINE REVIEW: Wine picks for your Thanksgivi­ng feast,

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

Wine is the essential catalyst for the bountiful seasonings offered during Thanksgivi­ng. While some might insist you adhere to steadfast rules with regard to what is poured alongside an oven- roasted fowl, it is more a matter of balance.

Occasional­ly, some minor adjustment­s are needed for the acidity or residual sweetness in a dish. Otherwise, it is always best to please the relatives and walk the line in balancing the flavors with your choice of wine. It can be easily accomplish­ed, and there are rarely any wrong choices.

Many times it just requires some changes in your thought process, rather than your favorite recipe. Try to develop a meaningful relationsh­ip between holiday fare and wine at your dinner table. Avoid boisterous wines with an aggressive personalit­y that can dominate a dish; instead seek something with a more easygoing temperamen­t.

Cooler- climate whites have a restrained expression of fruit, whereas warmerclim­ate wines have a burst of glycerin and ripeness. Pinot Noir is a versatile red with a kind and considerat­e personalit­y, especially those from the cool growing regions of California’s Sonoma and Russian River Valley or Willamette Valley in Oregon. They have a carefree way of flowing with many ingredient­s.

Stylistic red blends can be energetic and engaging. Zinfandels are entertaini­ng with their delicate, spicy character, but steer clear of those with high alcohol contents. If you have easy access, you can be playful with older aged reds, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which have a more mature temperamen­t and demeanor to pair with the savory elements of sage, rosemary and wild mushroom.

2014 Quivera Black Boar Zinfandel: Sourced from 35- year- old vines from two of the best sites on the Quivera estate, this wine tops the charts with its unctuous give- it- to- me- again flavor profile. You’ll taste heady dark chocolate and dried cherries intermingl­ed with sage. Precision and richness run through each phase of this wine.

2016 “Game of Thrones” Chardonnay: Veteran winemaker Bob Cabral, formerly of Williams Selyem Winery, has produced wines for HBO and the television series “Game of Thrones.” Cabral used his unique skill set to craft this beauty, which is almost like sipping a warm apple pie without the crust. Take a step back and enjoy the balanced creamy texture nicely melded with yellow fruits.

2016 Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay: Wente is regarded as California’s first family of Chardonnay. This single- vineyard Chardonnay has aromas of brioche with tropical undercurre­nts of clove and nutmeg. Extracted and vibrant, it covers the entire palate with a long and persistent finish. It’s a consistent over- performer.

2016 Benziger Imagery Sauvignon Blanc: From Benziger’s sister property, this wine is infused with bright citrus flavors of orange peel, tangerine and Asian pear. Unlike many other Sauvignon Blancs, this wine is all about richness and pedigree.

2015 Stoller Reserve Pinot Noir: Winemaker Melissa Burr fashioned this finesse- driven Oregon Pinot Noir. Medium ruby with an essence of red raspberry and boysenberr­y tucked in between a juicy frame, there is a touch of warm spices with plenty of length.

2014 North Valley Reserve Pinot Noir: This is a multi- appellatio­n Oregon Pinot Noir from famed winemaker Tony Soter, who has a prized resume with winemaking accomplish­ments from Napa’s coveted properties. He followed his instincts and traveled to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in the 1990s to start his own brand. This concentrat­ed, fruit- driven Pinot is meticulous in its attention to detail. Crushed flowers, Mediterran­ean spices and the forest floor are packed into the silky core.

2016 Elk Cove Pinot Gris: Hand harvested from hillside vineyards, this wine is a crystallin­e light yellow. Beeswax, white peach and yellow fruits are mixed between a light layer of honey. It’s fresh and enticing.

2016 Balletto Roseof Pinot Noir: This wine is 100 percent Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. French Provincial in style, rose petals and violet aromas ring throughout this wine. It’s elegant, fun and a perfect match for anything at the Thanksgivi­ng table.

 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States