THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED
Fly under the radar with these European gems
Ski slopes without lift lines. Steaming thermal baths. Rich fireside meals. While most people flock to Europe in the summer, winter has its own charms — especially if you avoid the most popular destinations like France and Italy. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by what you’ll find: intricate architecture, alluring streets, free- flowing wine; in other words, everything you’d expect from Europe — but with fewer crowds and, in some cases, for half the price. This winter, here are three European destinations you should consider. PORTUGAL
Seeking mild weather this winter? Portugal is a fantastic choice. Start in the romantic city of Lisbon — and if you don’t mind hills, stay in the enchanting Alfama neighborhood, which has been inhabited since the fifth century.
Because of its relatively warm temperatures ( in the 50s) and small crowds, Paula Oliveira, executive director of Turismo de Lisboa, calls winter “a perfect period to come for a short break.” She recommends visiting at Christmas or New Year’s, when you can sample specialty pastries and witness the city’s sparkling and festive city lights.
You could probably spend an entire week simply wandering Lisbon by foot or streetcar, but I recommend a food and wine walk with the tour group Inside Lisbon.
When you’d like to escape the city, travel an hour northwest by train to Sintra. This small town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is filled with castles. Among the most notable are the National Palace of Pena, a colorful 19th- century building that looks like it’s straight out of a Disney movie; the Castle of the Moors, a hilltop fortress with gorgeous views of the surrounding valley; and the Quinta de Regaleira, a Gothic mansion with expansive gardens.
For a different vibe, you could then head 186 miles south to the Algarve region, breathtaking with its craggy bays, steep cliffs and sandy beaches. As a spectacular finale, Oliveira suggests catching the sunset at Cape St. Vincent, the southwestern- most point in Europe.
GEORGIA
I admit that when I first decided to visit Georgia, I wasn’t sure exactly where it was. Turns out, this small country is sandwiched between the Black and Caspian seas, bordering Russia to the north and Turkey to the south — and well worth a visit.
First, spend some time in the capital city of Tbilisi. Its narrow alleys and crumbling buildings are all part of the city’s charm. When the weather gets cold, warm up with some Georgian comfort food. The tastiest treat I recommend trying is khachapuri, an oven- baked boat of dough filled with creamy cheese and topped with an egg.
Don’t forget the wine. Georgia lays claim to being one of its birthplaces, as people have been making wine here for 8,000 years. You won’t be able to see how grapes grow during the winter, but you can still enjoy the end result by visiting one of the country’s many wineries.
And, of course, a trip to Georgia wouldn’t be complete without a foray into those mountains, namely the Caucasus range. “Its beauty is peerless,” says Cooper. “There are few tourists, unlimited wine, the ski infrastructure is sufficient and the prices are comically low.”
ROMANIA
Although many think of Romania as the setting for Bram Stoker’s “Dracula,” exploring the country feels more like traipsing through one of Grimms’ fairy tales. It has everything a visitor to Europe is seeking: cobblestone streets, majestic castles and quaint cafes, all in a spectacular alpine setting.
You’ll likely start your trip in Bucharest. Learning about its complicated history will provide an important base for understanding the rest of the country. Take the fascinating Tour of Communism, run by guides who openly share what their lives were like under communism.
Once you’ve tired of the city, take a train into Transylvania and explore the Carpathian Mountains via snowmobile, dogsled or skis.
“Slopes are easily accessible, lift tickets are a fraction of the cost in North America or Western Europe and there’s no danger of avalanches,” says Simion Alb, founder of RomaniaTourism. com, a nonprofit that encourages travel to the area.
There are a number of castles to explore in this part of the country. You’ll be able to visit the modern PeleȘ Castle, as well as take a day trip to Bran Castle. Just don’t put too much stock in the latter’s “Dracula’s Castle” moniker; the famous Vlad Dracul may have slept here for a night or two, but his real castle lies in ruins on the other side of the country.