Chicago Sun-Times

Pay close attention to perch

Take proper care when prepping and cooking

- DALE BOWMAN

Years ago, I pulled a few tips from Phil Smidt’s, the late great eatery in northwest Indiana.

I thought of that as perch madness does an extended run on the Chicago lakefront.

One big thing I drew out of Smidt’s was to scale the perch, which saves flesh and adds flavor. That’s particular­ly important this winter as many of the perch being caught are smaller.

With the perch I caught last week, I even went to deep frying them nearly whole, rather than filleted because of the size.

Perch are not a pronounced flavor. That’s the opposite of something like salmon or blackened redfish, to which you can do anything and they still will taste good. If you blacken perch, do us all a favor and donate your fishing rods, jigs, frying pans and spatulas to your local Goodwill.

Perch need a hug, not a wrestling match, and that applies both to prepping and pairing with a drink.

I suspect perch chasers lean toward beer. In that case, I suggest something non- intrusive ( read bland) as Miller High Life or, if you want to pretend to be fancy, Rolling Rock ( there are citrus notes in Latrobe’s famous product).

Perch is not the meal to do a hoppy IPA, unless you are so cutting edge you drink a hoppy IPA with everything, even when calling your sweet mother.

As to wine pairing, sports radio host Dan Bernstein talked to his guy, Mateo Ramos of Bodega Ramos in Lakeview, who suggested “an Oregon Pinot Gris or a dry Prosecco— say, Valdobbiad­ene— for a sparkling option.’’

I went with a cheap Pinot Grigio.

As to the perch, my latest presentati­on was based on the unfilleted perch. First I dried them, then rolled them in flour, then dredged them in egg wash, then rolled them with seasoned flour/ corn meal mix, then dropped them in the fryer.

The perch were plated with basmati rice and clementine slices ( for color contrast and a more subtle citrusy touch than lemon wedges).

Perch should be experience­d fully, from catching to eating.

Deer

When preliminar­y harvest numbers for Illinois’ second firearm deer season are sent, I will post them online. I suspect it will be better comparativ­ely, if simply because of the weather, than in the first season. Looks like real winter for the muzzleload­er deer season Friday through Sunday.

Waterfowl

The major weather change may bring a push of much- needed fresh ducks. Braidwood Lake had a slow tofair week last week. The best day was Friday ( 30 ducks, six geese). Heidecke Lake had a fair week ( 81 ducks, four geese).

Wild things

The irruption of snowy owls is so big, even fishermen are sending photos from around Chicago. Capt. Mike Shine sent a beauty from the shipping channel in Indiana.

Stray cast

Alice Merton’s “No Roots’’ is my latest favorite song vaguely outdoors- related; it’s a bit squirrelly.

 ?? | DALE BOWMAN/ FOR THE SUN- TIMES ?? Perch dinner plated with basmati rice and clementine slices with a fresh parsley garnish.
| DALE BOWMAN/ FOR THE SUN- TIMES Perch dinner plated with basmati rice and clementine slices with a fresh parsley garnish.
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