Chicago Sun-Times

California winery is truly a family affair

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

The Wagner family and Caymus Vineyards in Rutherford, California, have been synonymous with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for decades.

The Wagners were among the early pioneers and have taken a grounded family approach to winemaking, distinguis­hing themselves in the valley. They continue to expand the family’s legacy with brands that are easily recognized by most consumers.

In 1941, Charlie Wagner and his wife, Lorna Belle Glos, purchased 73 acres of land in Rutherford and planted fruit orchards along with some vineyards. In the 1960s, they decided to replant the land entirely with vineyards, selling grapes to local wineries.

Working together with their only son, Chuck, they opened the Caymus Vineyards winery in 1972 with a modest 240- case production of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1975, Caymus released its flagship wine, Caymus Special Select, chosen from select barrels. It was produced under the guidance of famed winemaker Randy Dunn.

Chuck Wagner’s family history in grape growing and winemaking dates back eight generation­s and 150 years. Both his mother and father’s ancestors had a pioneering spirit and deep roots in northern California soils.

Today, Chuck continues to pursue the same excellence in the vineyards as his father. The family has worked together for three decades, establishi­ng and fine- tuning Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. Each of the Caymus Cabernets has consistent­ly garnered accolades from prestigiou­s wine publicatio­ns.

Chuck’s two sons, Charlie and Joe, along with his daughter, Jenny, each manage a separate family brand and a different varietal.

Joe oversees Belle Glos Pinot Noir, sourcing fruit from three diverse California appellatio­ns. Given the rising popularity of Pinot Noir and needing an entry- level wine, Joe introduced the plush, fruit- forward Meomi Pinot Noir in 2006. The wine’s popularity exceeded expectatio­ns, and by 2016, he sold the brand to Constellat­ion for $ 315 million.

With a vision toward the future, Chuck purchased vineyards in the cooler climates of the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey, California, in 1988. His son Charlie became owner and director of the Mer Soleil Winery in the Santa Lucia Highlands. The winery crafts two Mer Soleil Chardonnay­s, fermented in oak barrels, in addition to an un- oaked “Silver” Chardonnay. By 2012, daughter Jenny had her own label with the Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot brands, named after her mother’s family.

The winery’s Conundrum label was born in 1989, an idea conceptual­ized from inventive blending by Charlie Wagner at the dinner table. It is a playful combinatio­n of different grape varietals that all seem to work together in a light- hearted and engaging way. Chuck Wagner manages the Conundrum Red project.

The succession plan and continuati­on of innovative ideas seem endless with the Wagner family, as it opens the door for consumers to challenge their senses with high- quality products.

2015 Mer Soleil Santa Barbara Reserve Chardonnay: From the warmer coastal climate influence of Santa Barbara County, this nicely proportion­ed wine features white peach and honeyed lemon blossoms. It has a hint of fresh acidity in the background.

2015 Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: This wine is sourced from eight of Napa’s 16 appellatio­ns, and it retains a long and consistent track record. Inky purple with unctuous blackberry fruit and a dusting of dark mocha, it is graceful and full of ripe tannins, making it immediatel­y accessible or age- worthy.

2016 Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc: This nicely balanced wine is pale in color and leads you through a core of savory minerals with green apple and pineapple spice.

2015 Conundrum White: A creative blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, Muscat Canelli and Viognier, the aromas of spring flowers and honeysuckl­e make this white immediatel­y attractive. You can taste underlying ripeness of dried orange peel and apricot. It’s an easy- to- drink white for any occasion.

2015 Conundrum Red: An artistic blend of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, this wine is opaque purple with dark plum sauce and generous amounts of baked berry fruit. A touch of spiciness from the Zinfandel brings everything together.

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