Chicago Sun-Times

WINE REVIEW: For Mother’s Day, celebrate the mom who gave us rosé,

- BY W. PETER HOYNE For Custom Media Solutions

As we celebrate Mother’s Day with a glass or three of rosé bubbly, we can also celebrate a 27- year- old widow who changed the world of Champagne forever. Madame Barbe- Nicole Clicquot was the creator of the first blended rosé Champagne more than 200 years ago.

In 1805, she establishe­d the revered Champagne house of Veuve Clicquot, which translates to ” the widow Clicquot.” While raising her daughter, she became one of the world’s first internatio­nal businesswo­men, and this was at a time when women in France were considered second- class citizens. This keenly intelligen­t woman transforme­d her late husband’s failing wine business into one of the world’s most beloved and highly regarded Champagne houses in France.

Madame Clicquot was credited with bringing important innovation­s to the production of Champagne, but she may be best known for creating the first rosé Champagne in 1818 by adding still red wine to her Champagne. Since then, enthusiasm for rosé has risen steadily.

The “Grande Dame of Champagne” brought other advancemen­ts to the forefront as well. The elegant shape of Champagne bottles was her brainchild, and Clicquot was the inventor of the firstever vintage- style Champagne.

Perhaps her greatest contributi­on was the ingenious process of riddling or rotating Champagne as it was being fermented in the bottle. This technique changed the cloudy appearance of Champagne into the crystal- clear color we love. Additional­ly, it improved the quality of the Champagne and made it much faster to produce. At one time, only nobility sipped Champagne, but with these advancemen­ts, it became more readily available to the public.

Sparkling rosés can encompass a wide spectrum of quality levels, styles and flavor profiles. They can vary in color from pastel pink to deep magenta. They are more expressive, with an essence of red currants and a fuller texture. Rosé Champagnes’ and sparking rosés’ depth of flavor and bright acidity allow them to pair well with many foods while becoming one of the most versatile wines at the dinner table.

As we toast the wonderful women in our lives on Mother’s Day with a glass of rosé bubbly, let’s give another toast to the effervesce­nt trailblaze­r who crafted it, Madame Veuve Clicquot.

Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé Champagne: A blend containing almost 50 percent Pinot Noir, it is sourced from 50 to 60 different cru vineyards. There is an aroma of light brioche intertwine­d with stone cherry and citrus fruits. It has a linear expression on the palate with freshness throughout.

2008 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut Rosé Champagne: Five percent of this wine was produced in French Oak barrels, which adds a striking dimension to the Champagne. It is pale pink with hints of pastry crust on the nose. This is substantia­l Champagne, with tangerine and ginger interwoven into a rich, creamy body. It is a Champagne that would make Madame Clicquot most proud.

2006 Bollinger Vintage Rosé Champagne: This 72 percent Pinot Noir is cellar aged for more than 10 years. It is a stylish and full- bodied Champagne with a muscular character balanced with bakery- fresh bread, minerality and bright red berries.

Moet Nectar Imperial Rosé Champagne: Moet continues to excel with an impressive lineup. This deeply colored rosé has scents of flowers, a touch of sweetness and a hefty amount of baked strawberry fruit. Its lushness is balanced with lively acidity.

Roederer Estate Brut Rosé: This multi- vintage estate rosé is made up of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There is value and quality in this rosé. The cherry-strawberry notes delicately caress the palate from front to back.

Roederer L’Ermitage Brut Rosé: This wine is sourced from select vineyards on the Roederer estate in Anderson Valley, California. This Tête de Cuvée sparkler is made only in exceptiona­l years. It has a rich bouquet with red currant overtones and is deeply expressive. There is a texture of red orchard fruits that make it appear new and old world in style. It has a long and memorable finish.

Riedel Fatto a Manno Pink Rosé Glass: George Riedel continues to excel as an innovator in glass design. With each bowl shape design, he allows the wine to achieve its ultimate expression with aromas and taste profile.

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