WINE REVIEW: Exploring the wines of Burgundy, France,
Consumers enamored with the wines of Burgundy, France, talk about them as though they are close family members or relatives. These devout followers can critique the geography, soil differences, individual producers and vineyards as if it was their second language. When you delve into the region, you can fully understand this reverence and deep-seated respect.
Burgundy is a storied region made up of the some of the most revered vineyards and producers in the world. The two esteemed and dominant grape varieties in this continental climate are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wines serve as a historic benchmark for the global winemaking community, influencing their styles.
The heart of Burgundy, referred to as Bourgogne, stretches from the capital of Dijon in the north to the village of Mâcon in the south. Within this core is Beaune, the inner sanctum and soul of Burgundy. It is a medieval, walled town of cobblestone streets, tasting cellars and cafes that speak of French gastronomy.
The outlying villages and vineyards of the Côte-d’Or tell the true story behind this mythical site. A hierarchy exists here, with grand cru vineyards gifted with the highest designation, followed by premier cru, village and regional wines.
Within the Côte de Beaune are the villages of Mersault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne, known for their mineral-driven whites and limestone-rich soils. The Côte de Nuits is revered for its reds from Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vougeot, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée.
With 72,000 acres of cultivated vines, Burgundy accounts for only 0.4 percent of the world’s wine production. Following the most respected producers through their village and regional wines will offer you a confident and seductive acquaintance with Burgundy.
Olivier Leflaive: A “haute-couture” producer of exceptional whites, Olivier Leflaive is an 18th-generation winemaker and family member. He sources grapes to produce 82 wines from 1,247 different soil types.
In 1985, after being at the helm of Domaine Leflaive, he transitioned to his own company, Olivier Leflaive Frères. Leflaive believes “winemaking is easy if you have good grapes and soils” and insists that the wine please him.
Leflaive’s grand and premier cru vineyards have deeper limestone soils and ideal sun exposure. Any of Olivier’s whites, including Mersault Blagny, Batard, Puligny or Chassagne-Montrachets, along with his regional Bourgogne whites, are well worth exploring.
Domaine Faiveley: Established in 1825 in the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges, this domaine is one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy. Son Erwan Faiveley expanded his vineyard holdings and refined the winemaking style, introducing a new facility earlier this year. His expression is through supple and finesse-driven wines that steer away from over-extraction. All the reds are remarkable, including Mercurey “La Framboisiere,” Corton “Clos de Cortons Faiveley” and Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Maison Joseph Drouhin: This domaine was founded by Joseph Drouhin in the village of Beaune in 1880. As a négociant and owner, Drouhin has access to grapes from select parcels throughout Burgundy.
Grandson Robert Drouhin assumed control in 1957 and had been its director for more than 40 years. He pioneered the expansion of their roots into Dundee Hills, Oregon.
All four children are involved in this family-run business. Drouhin appointed his daughter, Veronique, to serve as the “guardian of the style.” The wines of Drouhin are sleek, focused and elegant. Notable wines are Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Embazees,” Chablis “Mont de Milieu” and their modest bottling of Pouilly-Vinzelles.
Maison Louis Jadot: The origins date back to 1859, with the first vineyard in Beaune. Technical director Frédéric Barnier meticulously manages a comprehensive portfolio of reds and whites, including 23 grand crus in the Cote de Nuits. Each of Jadot’s Mersault bottlings are expressive, with well-rounded layers of unctuous yellow fruits, a touch of cream and a long vibrant finish. Distinguished wines include Corton-Charlemagne, Mersault “Perrieres,” Mersault “Genevrieres” and the premier cru reds from Beaune. The village wines offer affordability and plenty of sensory gratification.