WINE REVIEW: Russian River Valley a hotbed of outstanding wineries,

The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, California, is home to wineries and vineyards with a mosaic of finely tuned, finesse-driven Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Within this heartland of forested rolling hills and complex soils is a community of multigenerational families who have bred winemaking and grape growing into the natural beauty.

Warren Dutton, Joe Rochioli, Gary Farrell, Joseph Swan, Tom Dehlinger and John Balletto have inspired many followers. Each had an untainted vision of what Pinot Noir and Chardonnay could achieve within this inner sanctuary. It is a demographic where vineyards and wineries compete at every level with the best expression of reds and whites from Burgundy, France.

Balletto: John Balletto took over his family’s farming business at age 17, upon the sudden death of his father. On the recommendation of Warren Dutton, Balletto transitioned to grape growing, owning 850 acres of estate-grown vineyards in Russian River. Balletto reserves the best for his own label, selling the remaining fruit to other top producers. “There’s not a piece of property that I don’t like,” he says.

Balletto and winemaker Anthony Beckman confess to an unhealthy obsession with making great wine. Recent noteworthy achievements include the sexy 2016 Sexton Hills Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in addition to the lush Russian River appellation Pinot Noir and Chardonnay labels.

Dutton Estate: This is a sixth-generation family of grape growers and winemakers. With 1,200 acres, the Duttons established their roots in farming agriculture. Warren Dutton, a former apple grower, is embraced as one of the most respected grape growers in the Russian River Valley. Joe Dutton is co-owner of Dutton Ranch, sourcing blue-chip fruit bearing the Dutton name to 80 clients throughout California.

Joe and Tracy Dutton spearhead the Dutton Estate vision. Dutton Chardonnays are easily identifiable for their richly framed style. Recent noteworthy achievements include 2015 Kyndall’s Reserve Chardonnay, 2017 Warren’s Collection Chardonnay and the 2015 La Familia Pinot Noir.

Rochioli: The Rochiolis are an ItalianAmerican family intimately tied to the history and grape growing in the Russian River Valley. Joe Rochioli Jr. farmed a 140-acre estate called Fenton Acres with his father Joe Sr. Their crop consisted of hops, string beans and blending grapes for jug wines. With an ambition to plant European varietals, Rochioli Jr. convinced his father to grow Sauvignon Blanc in 1959. Afterward, they cultivated some of the first Burgundy clones of Pinot Noir in the valley.

By 1983, Joe’s son Tom had left a career in banking to join his father and become winemaker. The Rochiolis are revered pioneers, grape growers and winemakers in Russian River. The family name is highlighted on prestigious Pinot Noir labels. Recent noteworthy achievements include the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 Russian River and Rochioli “River Block” Pinot Noirs.

Benovia: Joe Anderson and his wife, Mary Dewane, acquired the Cohn Vineyard in the Russian River Valley in 2002, expanding plantings of Pinot Noir. Co-owner Mike Sullivan is the winemaker, intellect and the driving force behind this winery. After stints at Landmark and Chappellet wineries, Sullivan garnered honors for his achievements at Hartford Winery.

With its first commercial release in 2006, Benovia excels in handcrafting small lots of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Recent noteworthy achievements are the 2016 La Pommeraie Chardonnay, 2016 La Pommeraie Pinot Noir and the epic 2016 Bella Una.

MacRostie: As a former Army cryptographer in Italy, Steve MacRostie experienced European wines firsthand. After returning, he abandoned his pursuit of medicine for a degree in enology. In 1974, he was appointed winemaker for Sonoma’s Hacienda Winery. By 1987, MacRostie’s calling led him to establish his own winery.

Now, four decades later, he continues to focus on mastering cool-climate varietals throughout Sonoma. Today, winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen crafts 15 to 20 single-vineyard wines. Recent noteworthy achievements include the stellar trio of 2016 Klopp Ranch, 2016 Terra de Promissio and 2016 Manzana Vineyard Pinot Noirs.

Dutton-Goldfield: Fifth-generation grower Steve Dutton formed a partnership with winemaker Dan Goldfield in 1998. An avid admirer of Burgundian-styled wines, Goldfield brought awareness of his winemaking talents crafting wines at La Crema and Hartford Court.

Dutton-Goldfield is now celebrating its 20th anniversary. They source fruit from 40 different growers, and its portfolio includes the prized 2015 Walker’s Hill Chardonnay, 2015 Emerald Ridge Pinot Noir and Alsatian-styled 2017 Pinot Blanc.