Chicago Sun-Times

INSIDE: Russian River wines worth seeking out,

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

The Russian River Valley takes its name from the Russian fur traders who sought refuge in the coastal reaches of California’s Fort Ross in the 1800s. These settlers were the first to cultivate grapes in Sonoma County. European immigrants followed, reshaping grain fields and apple orchards into vineyards.

The valley forms a golden triangle extending from Healdsburg in the north, Occidental to the west and Santa Rosa in the south. In close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the cooling influence of heavy fog navigates its way through the Petaluma Gap, migrating north. The distinctiv­e soils are well-drained Altamont and pale-brown loamy sandstone called Goldridge.

Lynmar: Owner Lynn Fritz has an unstoppabl­e energy and relentless devotion to making this one of the ultra-premium labels in the Russian River Valley. As CEO of a global logistics company, Fritz purchased a property designated as Quail Hill for his summer retreat. Ten years later, he establishe­d a winery, expanding the property with contiguous parcels of vineyards. The 100-acre estate has five different aspects with 14 clones of Pinot Noir and six of Chardonnay. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the 2016 Quail Hill and Monastery Pinot Noirs and the 2015 Susanna’s Vineyard designatio­ns.

Gary Farrell: Gary Farrell was an early pioneer in the valley, having worked alongside Joe Rochioli and Tom Dehlinger. His efforts with Davis Bynum brought him recognitio­n, and he pursued his own label in 1982. Farrell made his reputation with single-vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay­s from Halberg, Rochioli, Bacigalupi and Westside Farms.Vincraft now owns the brand, with the talented Theresa Heredia guiding its future. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the 2015 Rochioli-Allen and Olivet Lane Chardonnay­s and the wellconstr­ucted 2016 Rochioli Pinot Noir.

Bacigalupi Vineyards: The legacy of the Bacigalupi family dates back to 1956, when Charles and Helen Bacigalupi purchased a 121-acre ranch in the valley. The family’s grapes helped platform the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay to win the 1976 Paris Tasting. The Bacigalupi family sells its grapes to 27 wineries, keeping some of the best for winery estate production. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the 2016 Russian River Chardonnay, the 2016 Fondare and a glamorous 2016 Zinfandel.

La Crema: German immigrant Henry Castens bought acreage on a wooded lot in the late 1800s. Saralee and Richard Kundee planted the Russian River vineyard in 1989, after it was expanded to 200 acres. When Jess Jackson bought this property in 1993, he recruited famed winemaker Dan Goldfield. Now, Craig McAllister is at the helm. La Crema has establishe­d a prominent place in restaurant­s and on retail shelves. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include 2015 Nine Barrel Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along with the expressive Fog Veil Pinot Noir.

Dehlinger: Tom Dehlinger left his aspiration­s for the medical field to become an enologist, trained at the University of California-Davis. He started his own estate winery in 1975 with a small 14-acre parcel in one of the coolest regions of the Russian River Valley. Meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards and in winemaking made him an early household name. He channeled his efforts into planting red grapes in the Altamont red soils and white grapes in the white soils. Today his daughter Eva is duplicatin­g his efforts. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the 2016 Altamont and Goldridge Pinot Noirs.

Arista: Al and Janis McWilliams started this family-run business in 2002. Mark McWilliams and his brother Ben inherited the property, making a name for the Arista brand. They have a 36-acre estate and source from respected growers. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the richly layered 2016 Russian River Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

DuMol: A native of Edinburgh, Scotland, Andy Smith dabbled in crafting prestige Napa Cabernet and Russian River Pinot. Smith manages 28 different vineyards and 18 bottlings. His primary focus is Green Valley in Russian River. Smith professes that he makes wine by feel in a way that defines the vintage. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the 2016 Wester Ranch Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and 2016 Estate Pinot Noir.

Kosta Browne: Dan Kosta and Michael Browne developed their deep-seated love for wine while working at John Ash Restaurant. In 1997, they handcrafte­d one barrel of Pinot Noir from purchased grapes. After Wine Spectator reviewed their 2003 vintage wines, they rose to the top and history was made. Recent noteworthy achievemen­ts include the lavish 2016 Giusti Ranch and Russian River Pinot Noirs.

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