| A taste of Poland at Ewa’s Pierogi in Glenview
Along with Pelmeni and borscht, the Glenview restaurant — now a year old — carries five flavors of its namesake dish, including mushroom and spinach
Ewa Zapolsky moved to the Chicago area from Poland six years ago to pursue her dreams in the restaurant business and create a better life for her daughter. Half a decade later, she is basking in the glow of the Ewa’s Pierogi one-year anniversary.
“My dream was to go to cooking school, but my parents made me go to school for economics,” said Zapolsky, reminiscing about her homeland and celebrating Ewa’s Pierogi’s milestone this past June.
“I was very happy [to celebrate the one-year anniversary]. [When starting], I was worried about finding staff and a chef to help me with the cooking in the kitchen.”
Ewa’s Pierogi, at 976 Harlem Ave. in Glenview, is bright and cheery, with soothing green accents and crystal pendants.
“I wanted it to feel like at home because I’m here every day and I want to feel good,” said Zapolsky, who speaks five languages. “We always have fresh flowers.”
Through social media, Zapolsky has connected with the local Polish, Ukrainian and Russian communities and others to publicize the traditional Eastern European menu.
Ewa’s Pierogi carries five flavors of its namesake dish: meat [beef and pork mixture], mushroom and sauerkraut, potato and cheese, spinach and mozzarella, and mac and cheese. The dumplings can be served pan friend or boiled with bacon and sour cream.
Once a customer was so overwhelmed with how good a pierogi tasted, she screamed with delight. Zapolsky wan’t sure what was going on, so she left the kitchen to check on the patron’s well-being.
Fruit pierogi flavors include sweet cheese, blueberry, strawberry, plum, cherries and Nutella.
Another dumpling variety is the Russian Pelmeni, a small meat ravioli served with a light broth with a dollop of sour cream and dill as garnish.
The popular traditional Ukrainian borscht and chicken noodle soup are served daily.
“People come in here just to eat the borscht,” said Zapolsky, who learned how to cook observing and helping her mother and grandmother.
“We start with fresh cabbage. It’s vegetarian, it’s really good even without the meat, then we add potatoes, carrots, beets, and a touch of tomato paste.”
Appetizers include potato pancakes with smoked salmon, dill cream and caviar. A beet carpaccio is served with goat cheese, arugula and balsamic vinegar, and a herring tartare is served with cornichons, capers and boiled egg.
The restaurant also features sweet and savory crepes. I thought I was well-versed in Polish cuisine, but it was at Ewa’s Pierogi where I tried zapiekanka for the first time. Zapiekanka — a Polish street food that reminds me of French bread pizza — is an open-faced sandwich made with a baguette and topped with sautéed mushrooms, melted cheese and ketchup. You can also add meat to your customizable zapiekanka, drizzle it with mayonnaise and garnish it with chopped chives.
Zapolsky also has specials, including seafood soup [with fish, shrimp and fresh blue shell crab] and beef tartare garnished with egg yolk and served with Polish bread.
If you are looking for a more substantial meal, try either the grilled polish sausage, the Kotlet schabowy — a breaded pork chop — or stuffed cabbage rolls [with mushroom or tomato sauce].
Another Polish delight is Zapolsky’s compote or kompot— a non-alcoholic Eastern European fruit punch made by simmering fresh fruit with water and sugar. When I stopped by, cherries and strawberries were in season.