Chicago Sun-Times

In Palatine, tacos with a Middle Eastern touch

- JI SUK YI jsyi@suntimes.com | @oh_em_ji_CST

In a nondescrip­t strip mall in northwest suburban Palatine, there’s a small fastcasual taco joint that’s so big on flavor, it has been making waves nationally on Yelp’s list of “Top 100 Places to Eat in 2019.”

The owners of Los Takitos Taco Shop, referred to by many as “Taco Shop,” mince no words about their unfussy mission — to make simply delicious tacos that combine the owners’ Lebanese and Mexican heritages.

“Everybody loves tacos,” co-owner Sanaa Yazbek said. “Anybody who sees ‘Taco Shop’ knows right away what we do. We made it simple enough with the sign and name.”

Yazbek and Alma Hernandez, a trained biologist, are restaurant industry veterans who met six years ago while bartending for a large restaurant chain. The two quickly became friends and started making plans for a business of their own.

When they discovered space for rent near a children’s batting cage and a bustling ice cream shop, they knew tacos would round out the strip mall’s offerings. They opened their taco shop, at 809 N. Quentin Road, near the close of 2017. Less than two years later, the Taco Shop ranks as No. 62 on Yelp’s 2019 list for must-try U.S. restaurant­s.

“Our customers are very loyal; 90 percent of our customers are regulars, and all of our publicity has been word of mouth,” Yazbek said proudly.

Despite a straightfo­rward menu featuring tacos, burritos, fajitas, tortas and salads, influences from Yazbek’s cultural background add an unexpected twist to the flavors Hernandez has perfected using her grandmothe­r and family’s recipes from the region of Cuernavaca, Morelos.

“I’m from the Middle East, from Lebanon. We use a lot of spices and herbs,” said Yazbek. “When Alma and I decided to open, we wanted to combine some of these flavors together. It’s Mexican authentic with a twist.”

The popular tacos al pastor is a nod to Yazbek’s Lebanese heritage. She explained that Lebanese immigrants brought shawarma — a dish using the technique of spit-roasting meat — to Mexico in the 1900s. Mexicans adapted the cooking style by using pork instead of lamb and adding spices, a variety of chiles, onion and pineapple. Carne asada, ground beef, chicken, al pastor pork, carnitas (seasoned braised pork, crisped on the griddle before serving) and chorizo feature premium quality meats delivered from a local butcher. The restaurant serves over 400 pounds of carne asada (grilled skirt steak marinated in 20 spices for 24 hours) and more than 250 pounds of al pastor (seasoned with an 18-spice blend rub) per week.

White corn tortillas from El Milagro are used for tacos and fried in-house for chips.

Outside of the tortillas, the daily fromscratc­h kitchen preps include marinating meats for 24 hours in a secret blend of spices and making guacamole from fresh avocados and a refreshing horchata. A green and red salsa is also made from scratch.

Tilapia (grilled or battered) tacos are dressed with cabbage, cilantro and a signature mayo. Vegan offerings include soy chorizo, avocado or grilled portobello mushroom tacos. Additional menu items include shrimp tacos, chicken flautas and an assortment of sizzling fajitas.

Hernandez added that staffers are always ready to accommodat­e their diners. “We don’t see them just as a customer but as a friend and family,” she said.

Los Takitos Taco Shop is located at 809 N. Quentin Road in Palatine. For more informatio­n call (847) 485-8351 or visit lostakitos­tacoshop.com. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Ji Suk Yi’s “The Grid: Neighborho­od Eats” series is made possible by support from Baird & Warner real estate. Tour the neighborho­ods with Ji at suntimes.com/the-grid.

 ?? PHOTOS BY BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES ?? Al pastor tacos are served at Los Takitos Taco Shop.
PHOTOS BY BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES Al pastor tacos are served at Los Takitos Taco Shop.
 ??  ?? Sanaa Yazbek (left) and Alma Hernandez are co-owners of Los Takitos Taco Shop in Palatine.
Sanaa Yazbek (left) and Alma Hernandez are co-owners of Los Takitos Taco Shop in Palatine.
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