In the cradle of mankind
Annual celebration in Kenya reunites Turkana diaspora, aims to bring tourists to key historical site
Women adorned with multicolored beaded necklaces, two pieces of leather wrapped around their waist and chest with their back left bare, and men adorned with vests and woven textiles wrapped around their waist, head caps adorned with ostrich feathers, and jewelry across their chests.
The striking attire and tribal culture were presented at the just concluded Turkana Tourism and Cultural Festival, or Tobong’u Lore, at the Ekalees Cultural Centre in Lodwar to promote this dry county in northern Kenya as the origin of humankind and a destination for international tourists.
Tobong’u Lore, meaning welcome home, represents the rich archaeological heritage of the Turkana Basin, considered the cradle of mankind. It gained this title following the discovery of a nearly complete fossilized skeleton dating back about 1.5 million years. Kenyan paleontologist Kamoya Kimeu made the discovery on a bank of the Nariokotome River near Lake Turkana in 1984. Tobong’u Lore celebrates not only Turkana’s cultural traditions but also its historical significance to human evolution.
The specimen is the remains of someone now known as Turkana Boy, estimated to have died at the age of 11. It is on display in the Nairobi National Museum. There is also evidence of hominids having lived at Lake Turkana 4.2 million years ago.
At the festival, men carried a walking stick and a traditional stool popularly known as an ekicholong, which is used as a simple chair and headrest. Both men and women dancers also wore traditional sandals made from animal skin.
Most of the visitors, including Kenya’s President William Ruto, also wore traditional regalia.
More than 200 groups from different parts of the county entertained visitors with songs and dances, with the performances highlighting occasions such as peace advocacy, bumper harvests, and praise to gods for rains as well as beseeching the deities to alleviate challenges such as drought.
The dances were so captivating that guests, including Ruto, occasionally joined the dancers at the podium.
The zeal of the dancers and the size of the crowds demonstrated the public’s passion for preserving their culture at a time when several of Kenya’s 42 tribes have lost their culture to modern civilization.
Jackson Eraman, one of the community elders, said Turkana people are determined to preserve their culture and pass it on to future generations.
The elders are keen for the county government to have the local language taught in primary schools so children can deeply understand their culture and focus on retaining it, he said.
“Plans are underway to publish a
book that will detail the Turkana culture as a way of preserving it.”
Preserving the culture and promoting peaceful coexistence were part of the reason the elders had had talks with the county government that resulted in the Turkana Tourism and Cultural Festival being established, he said.
The Kenyan government is also committed to promoting Turkana County as a cultural tourism destination of choice, making the most of its status as a cradle of mankind.
President Ruto said Tobong’u Lore is a local festival, a national event, a regional celebration, and a call to all humanity to come home and experience the beauty of culture.
To enable as many tourists as possible to visit Turkana and the rest of Kenya, Ruto said the country will provide visas free of charge.
He also said a science park will be built in the county to exhibit the origin of humankind as well as increase the number of tourists coming to the county.
“The national government will work together with the county government of Turkana to increase tourists to the county and ensure that people from across the globe travel to Turkana to see the cradle of humankind.”
Zhang Zhizhong, minister counselor and deputy head of mission at the Chinese embassy in Kenya, on his first visit to the county, was elated that he had arrived at the location of the origin of humankind.
“Even though I was invited as a guest, I don’t feel like one, because I was told that Turkana is the cradle of mankind, so I’m back home.
“For me, this is not only a fabulous cultural event but a once-in-a-lifetime experience.”
Zhang said he hoped everyone on the planet would consider visiting Turkana at least once in their lifetime.
The annual cultural festival, which started two days after Kenya’s National Utamaduni (Culture) Day this year, brings together pastoral communities from Kenya, Uganda,
South Sudan, and Ethiopia, collectively referred to as the Ateker community. The event is a stage on which they can demonstrate their vibrant culture while fostering unity and cohesion.
Even though those of the Ateker community have a common dialect and traditional practices, they have frequently fought over grazing rights, so the festival is seen as a platform of reconciliation.
“When we invite the communities that we used to fight with, they go back to their country with a report of peace,” said Joseph Lotieng from western Turkana, who was one of the dancers.
The festival also brings back Turkana people who have relocated to big cities or gone abroad, thus reminding them of their traditional culture, he said.
Charles Ewoi, 55, a Turkana elder, said the festival has promoted unity among communities that have been at loggerheads for decades.
“When we gather for the festival we don’t talk about tribes. We are united and peaceful and our agenda is to celebrate our diverse culture.”
The festival also allows women who have been married into other tribes to return home and remind themselves about their culture and bring their children with them, Ewoi said.
Louis Lojore, governor of Eastern Equatoria state in South Sudan that borders Turkana and hosts Ateker people, said the festival has brought peace and unity.
At Tobong’u Lore, the cultural experience was not limited to songs and dance performances. Many stalls offered local cuisines that tantalized visitors and locals alike.
“I love the food, especially nyama choma (grilled meat),” said Jane Kalombe, who had traveled from Nairobi to attend the festival.
In addition to the performances and exhibitions at the Ekalees Cultural
Centre, Kalombe got an opportunity to visit several tourist attractions near Lodwar.
“This was the best way for me to unwind, away from the hustle and bustle of Nairobi. I plan to attend next year, too, and will invite my friends.”
Visitors also got an opportunity to view traditional Turkana huts and traditional kitchen containers.
The nomadic Turkana people build temporary, dome-shaped dwellings using malleable sticks and rope at their changing locations. These structures lack doors, allowing for faster detection of threats and quicker escape.
They also use kitchen containers crafted from skin and wood, with only a handful of clay cooking pots. Each container is intricately designed for a specific purpose.
Lillyrose Akori, a Turkana resident, said that in addition to child care and household chores, women are responsible for building their semipermanent houses because men are primarily involved in herding. They also weave various items such as baskets, lampshades, table mats, shopping bags, coasters, and brooms using palm leaves for domestic consumption and sale.
Visitors enjoyed the rich Turkana culture and performances despite the region’s extreme heat, which explains the locals’ preference for traditional clothing that leaves parts of their bodies exposed.
“Although I had heard that Turkana is hot, I underestimated the heat,” said Joan Mukiri, an attendee. “I didn’t bring light clothing with me, so I couldn’t explore as much as I wanted.”