China Daily Global Edition (USA)
USING THEIR NOODLES
A Japanese ramen restaurant is an instant hit in Shanghai, Xu Junqian reports.
water-filter machine has been imported and installed to soften the water, which is considered the blood of a noodle bowl.
At the Shanghai store, the offerings include four types of ramen: classic white pork (Original King), red (Spicy King), squid ink (Dark King) andbasilandParmesan cheese (Green King), plus a “special king” that will change on a regular basis.
For the opening month, the special is a lobster bisquelike soup noodles, as in Japanese culinary culture, shellfish is the language for celebration as champagne is in French culture. It is offered for a limited number of 888 bowls, a lucky number in China.
Whichever dish they favor, diners get to choose the thickness of the noodles, the richness of the soup, the variety of the toppings and the amount of garlic. For clueless firsttimers, there is a chef’s recommendation package.
The classic original aside, the most inviting option is the Dark King. The heavy use of black garlic and a homemade black soy sauce make the noodles guiltily gratifying, especially paired with the thin noodles, which can soak up the flavor of the soup completely. For the choice of char-siu, the tender slices of pork shoulder tastes even better than a thick chunk of pork belly, as the shoulder, slow-cooked at a rather low temperature, boasts a similar texture to Iberian ham.
Most choices — noodles, porkfilled dumplings and minced-pork rice — may appear rather heavy for the summer. But that hasn’t posed a problem for Shanghai’s diners, not even on the hottest days during the first week of opening, whenthe temperature soared to 40 C.
The Chilean Tinajas Cinsault wasn’t the only wine with ancient roots that was taking a bow in China last week.
On the weekend, Feudi di San Gregorio’s Privilego was served as the dessert wine at an Italian tasting dinner at La Dolce Vita in Beijing.
Made from 100 percent Fiano grapes, the wine is made in the Passito style, in which grapes are partially dried on straw mats or pallets in well-ventilated rooms or barns to concentrate the flavors and sweetness prior to vinification. After three to six months, the semi-dried grapes are gently pressed and the juice fermented until it reaches the desired level of sweetness and alcohol.
An ancient vine of the Roman era, Fiano was renamed “Latino” to distinguish it from Greek origins, says restaurant owner Fabio Falanga. “It is a vigorous vine that prospers well in soils of volcanic origin.”
Touted as a good match with pastries, the wine also sparkles when served with well-aged cheeses. Falanga served it with his signature dessert: The Prince, a rum-soaked baba (cake) served with chocolate and hazelnut cream, minced pistachios and strawberries.