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Fabric of the past

Belgian restorers breathe new life into ancient tapestries

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MECHELEN, Belgium — The painstakin­g job of restoring some of the world’s finest ancient tapestries, stitch by stitch, is not for the highly strung or restless.

Returning to its former glory the kind of creation that adorns a cathedral wall or is displayed at a world-renowned museum can take more than a year for tapestry restorers at Royal Manufactur­ers De Wit.

Tucked away in an elegant medieval monks’ residence in Belgium, head restorer Veerle De Wachter and her white-coated, all-female team of 15 labor away with needle and thread, adding thousands of stitches to a single piece.

“Someone who is nervous or excitable would never manage it,” she said, seated in front of a vast wall stacked with bundles of thread, a colorful reminder of the days when the company produced its own tapestries.

The work calls for a demanding degree of focus, knowledge of fabrics and thoroughne­ss, she adds.

“You need a calm person, who can work in a concentrat­ed manner without being distracted with what’s going on around them.”

As well as the traditiona­l meticulous craftsmans­hip, resuscitat­ing the faded scenes and preparing them for the future ravages of time requires modern technology.

Museums such as the Louvre in Paris, the Metropolit­an Museum of Art in New York and the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg entrust the restorers with their finest pieces in cotton and silk, some with strands of silver and gold.

Based in the northern Flemish town of Mechelen, the Royal Manufactur­ers De Wit was founded 1889 and is currently the biggest restorer of old tapestries in the world, based on the value of the pieces it restores.

These have included legendary works like “The Lady and the Unicorn”, a series of six tapestries woven in wool and silk in Flanders in the Middle Ages, on display at the Cluny museum in Paris.

There is also a collection of 29 enormous tapestries from Saint John’s Co-Cathedral in Malta which the restorers have been gradually working through over the past dozen years in a project estimated at around $1 million.

Difficult to transport due to their enormity, the 17th century Flemish tapestries have been sent to Royal Manufactur­ers De Wit in pairs.

First cleaned of dust, the artworks are then washed with an enormous spraying machine. Only once they are dried do the restorers set about their work.

The company makes its own silk and cotton threads to match the original historic colors as closely as possible.

“In the industry, you can’t find the right colors ,” says De Wachter.

“So we have to dye them ourselves in our laboratory, with colors which have a high luminosity. That way we can produce infinite combinatio­ns.”

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 ?? JOHN THYS / AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE ?? Restorers work on an old tapestry at the Royal Manufactur­ers De Wit in Mechelen. The company makes its own silk and cotton threads to match the original historic colors.
JOHN THYS / AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE Restorers work on an old tapestry at the Royal Manufactur­ers De Wit in Mechelen. The company makes its own silk and cotton threads to match the original historic colors.

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