China Daily Global Edition (USA)

SUMMER SQUASH Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe costumes make the perfect match for performanc­e artist Anthea Hamilton at Tate Britain

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and encase a series of large sculptures that serve as podiums for a number of works of art from Tate’s collection, chosen by Hamilton for their organic forms and colors. The tiles create an immersive new environmen­t within the neoclassic­al galleries.

Each day, the show focuses on a single character, dressed in one of seven colorful Loewe costumes inspired by the colors and shapes of squashes and pumpkins. The clothes also feature voluminous sleeves, bold patterns and legumestyl­e headwear. Each performer selects a costume that reflects their presentati­on of that day’s characters as they move around the space.

The organic texture of the costumes was created using handpainte­d leather and printed silk crepon, while 1970s clothing references have shaped some of the silhouette­s. (And note the somewhat surprising retro-reference to the sea monsters from the BBC’s long-running TV series

Hamilton was inspired by the work of early 20th-century French writer and dramatist Antonin Artaud and his call for the “physical knowledge of images”. With The Squash, she hopes to examine the concept of a bodily response to an idea or an image.

Renowned for her bold, often humorous works that incorporat­e references from art, design, fashion and popular culture, Hamilton has exhibited widely with large-scale, site-specific installati­ons.

These include her Turner Prizenomin­ated Lichen! Libido! Chastity! at the SculptureC­enter in New York (which was restaged at Tate Britain in 2016) and Anthea Hamilton Reimagines Kettle’s Yard at The Hepworth Wakefield in Yorkshire, England. Jonathan Anderson

Anderson is the perfect partner for Hamilton. The young designer founded JW Anderson in 2008 after graduating from the London College of Fashion, then became Loewe’s creative director in 2013. Anderson’s work often explores gender fluidity. He recently curated an exhibition based around such themes for Disobedien­t Bodies at The Hepworth Wakefield.

For that show, he also included sculptures by Henry Moore, Sarah Lucas and Barbara Hepworth to show how artists depict form through their work. He also created an installati­on of oversized jumpers that visitors could put on to transform their own bodies into abstract forms.

Anderson said at the time: “This is a rare and exciting opportunit­y for me to bring together pieces of art and fashion that have long inspired my own creative work and to see what happens when these objects rub up against each other.” Of Hamilton’s exhibit at Tate Britain, he says: “I want this to be a space in which to explore ideas of gender and identity that have been an ongoing part of my creative practice.”

For his latest autumn/winter 2018 collection, Anderson also collaborat­ed with an artist. The designer’s idea of going back to basics was reflected in the show’s set, which saw an otherwise simple space decorated by a centerpiec­e of sculptures by Martin Belou. The craft-focused installati­on, titled Les Hors d’Oeuvres, featured pieces spun from plaster and live fungus.

Have some fun at the Duveen Galleries at Tate Britain as you spot the brilliant combinatio­n of high and Loewe culture.

Doctor Who.) This is a rare and exciting opportunit­y for me to bring together pieces of art and fashion that have long inspired my own creative work.” Loewe creative director and designer The Squash (tate.org.uk) Half moon bag, ($469) runs until Oct 7.

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