The Heart of the Midwest
UNCOVER IOWA’S TREASURES, FROM SCENIC RIVER BLUFFS TO ROLLING FARMLAND...AND GENUINE KINDNESS.
But anyone familiar with the region can tell you Iowa is much more than that. So what draws folks to the heart of the Midwest? Maybe it’s the affordable living. Or the stunning sunrises and sunsets over the gentle rolling hills of the countryside. Or perhaps it’s the mantra of Iowa Nice that greets those passing through.
Iowa has a way of spreading kindness, as evidenced by the Hawkeye Wave, which takes place at university football games in Iowa City. After the first quarter, everyone in the stadium turns and waves across the street to the University of Iowa Children’s Hospital. Inside, patients and their families wave back. Even the opposing team waves.
Beyond kindness, Iowa holds other treasures. My wife, Jonah, and I live in Des Moines, but we are both from Fort Dodge, in the north-central part of the state. We enjoy the beauty of the four seasons, and we appreciate living close to family.
From our perspective, Iowa is flat. But once you head northeast from Des Moines, it’s amazing how many hills there are.
Iowa’s entire eastern border is carved out by the Mississippi River, the secondlongest in North America. Last fall, I took a three-day photography trip to document and discover the gorgeous eastern region of the state.
My journey started in Winneshiek County, home of the small college town of Decorah. Here, Palisades Park sits on a bluff east of the Upper Iowa River and provides a great vantage point from which to view Decorah. Another must-see spot is Dunnings Spring Park, which is home to a 200-foot waterfall—Iowa’s tallest.
I followed River Road along the Upper Iowa River, then I hopped a bit to the east to connect with the Driftless Area Scenic Byway, a 100-mile stretch that zigzags across Allamakee County. While heading northeast, I continued to follow the river, which twists and turns through valleys carved out of the landscape.
In New Albin, I merged onto the Great River Road National Scenic Byway. Iowa’s 328-mile section of the byway parallels the state line. Gigantic bluffs line the length of the Mississippi River into Wisconsin and Illinois, and farms dot the countryside.
During the winter months, bald eagles
flock to the open waters of the Mississippi. (The river doesn’t freeze at the state’s 11 locks and dams.) Between December and March, the bald eagle population here increases from 500 to 3,000, according to the Iowa Department of Natural Resources. That’s when birds from neighboring states and Canada migrate here to fish.
If you want to see these majestic birds in action, special events are planned throughout January and February along Iowa’s riverfront, like Eagle Watch and Cabin Fever Day in Guttenberg, about 58 miles fron New Albin. Several charming river towns also offer sightseeing locations.
Head south to Lansing and take in the panoramic views from Mount Hosmer Veteran’s Memorial Park. Perched on a bluff 450 feet above the town, this park allows you to see for miles into Wisconsin and affords visitors a wonderful aerial view of the Mississippi riverbed below.
Between Lansing and Harpers Ferry, you’ll find a lovely church nestled into the hills overlooking a cemetery. Immaculate Conception Church at Wexford is the oldest Catholic church between Dubuque, Iowa, and St. Paul, Minnesota, and still has an active congregation today.
The Yellow River State Forest is a choice destination for the outdoors enthusiast— camping, hiking, horseback riding trails and cross-country skiing are among the amenities this natural area has to offer.
Just north of Marquette, you will find Effigy Mounds National Monument. The park preserves more than 200 prehistoric mounds built by Native Americans of the Woodland culture. Numerous mounds there are shaped like bears and birds.
Fourteen miles of trails lead hikers past the ancient mounds and to scenic views of the Upper Mississippi River Valley. If you’re lucky, you may spot a train or a barge moving cargo through the valley or the storied waters below.
Pikes Peak State Park, near McGregor, is one of the more popular destinations in the area. A viewing platform on a 500-foot bluff allows you to see islands on the river, as well as Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, across the border.
Last but not least, if you’re journeying along this stretch in Iowa, a visit south to Balltown is essential. This was the last stop on my trip, and it did not disappoint. Overlooks high above the land provide that quintessential Iowa view of farmsteads and
Gigantic bluffs line the length of the Mississippi River into Wisconsin and Illinois, and farms dot the countryside. – JUSTIN ROGERS
pasture as far as the eye can see. A bonus is Breitbach’s Country Dining, a sixthgeneration family-owned restaurant that is Iowa’s oldest eatery.
I returned home to Des Moines with confirmation that my beautiful state has plenty of opportunities for not only the adventure seeker, but the photographer as well, all within a few hundred miles. Maybe that line from the movie Field of Dreams, filmed not far from Balltown, in Dyersville, had it right:
“Is this Heaven?”
No. It’s Iowa.