Appalachian Forest
In the Allegheny Highlands, discover charming mountain towns, ancient forests and toe-tapping music.
Eruptions of blooming mountain laurel within the forests and open spaces of West Virginia’s Allegheny Highlands usher in summer. Fields and forests ring with the sounds of returning birds, streams filling to their banks and the footsteps of hikers exploring the trails.
In this recreation paradise, it’s easy for us to forget the people who made a way of life in these forests. So that we always remember, the Appalachian Forest National Heritage
Area was created to conserve and promote the cultural legacy of the highlands in 16 counties in West Virginia and two in Maryland.
The story of the Appalachian Forest starts with the Native Americans who hunted here at least 12,000 years ago. It continues with German and Scotch-Irish settlers who in isolation developed forms of music, arts and crafts, and storytelling that endure.
Today, the descendants of those European settlers work, play, hike, hunt and fish in these majestic mountain highlands. The region is now a destination for nature lovers like us, outdoor enthusiasts and those who love the music and culture of the mountains.
RETURN TO NATURE
Our first glimpse of Seneca Rocks, a stunning quartzite fin that rises 900 feet above the North Fork River, came as a surprise. Seneca Rocks is a must-see, if only for its sheer grandeur. Rock climbers test their skills on its face, but we decided to hike an easier trail to a platform near to the top for a sweeping view of the valley below.
The national heritage area is full of stunning sites and vistas like these that leave us, and no doubt left the early pioneers, in awe. Though the logging boom in the late 19th and early 20th centuries clear-cut much of the forest, decades of thoughtful conservation have created wildlife refuges, wilderness areas, state forests and parks where folks come to appreciate the area’s rugged beauty.
At the heart of the highlands is the mighty Allegheny Front, a long escarpment that is home to West Virginia’s highest peaks. On these heights sits Dolly Sods Wilderness, the highlands’ crown jewel. It is known for rugged rock formations, sweeping vistas and hikes for every capability.
At an elevation of 4,863 feet, Spruce Knob is West Virginia’s highest peak. It is the mid-Atlantic’s premier dark-sky location and a wonderful spot to watch the sun rise. At the top is a short, well-developed loop trail and a stone and steel observation tower (be sure to bring binoculars).
You won’t want to miss Blackwater Falls State Park. Not far from the Canaan Valley
Seneca Rocks (top left) towers over the valley, South Prong Trail leads visitors into Dolly Sods Wilderness Area (right).
Resort, it has the laid-back feel of mountain bikers in the summer and skiers in the winter.
In the park, as we walked down the boardwalk trail to the falls, we could hear the thunder as the black water pounded and streamed into the canyon, sending a refreshing spray up toward us as we stood and admired the falls from an overlook.
For a glimpse of the ancient trees that drew loggers to this area, head to Cathedral State Park in Aurora. There, stroll the paths and meander among 500-yearold hemlock trees. We timed our visit to catch the summer rhododendron bloom, which beautifully decorated the scene. Similarly, a grove of 300-yearold hemlock and pine trees are preserved in Swallow Falls State Park in Maryland.
SMALL-TOWN SPIRIT
The region is dotted with mountain towns, or “mountowns,” that embody the best of Appalachian culture. Of these, none represents the resilient spirit of modern outdoor communities better than tiny Marlinton, population around 1,100. The Greenbrier
River flows through Marlinton, which is the seat of Pocahontas County. It has a vibrant visitors center, locally run shops, a restored opera house, cafes and parks. There you’ll find the Greenbrier River Trail, a 78-mile converted railroad bed that is arguably one of the area’s best rails-to-trails conversions. And the town is a gateway to the Monongahela National Forest, which is the place to hike, bird, hunt or fish.
When in Marlinton, be sure to stop for lunch at the eclectic Dirtbean Cafe & Bike Shop, where you can watch mechanics repair bikes while you eat lunch (we love the wraps). The cafe also works with the Marlinton Art Center to offer classes in painting, glass fusion and ceramics.
Marlinton is also the jumping-off spot for so many of our favorite outdoor destinations in the Cranberry Mountains to the west. We love to walk along the boardwalk among the carnivorous pitcher plants, cranberries and cotton grass in the Cranberry Glades
Botanical Area, which protects the largest area of bogs in the state. While there, we drove 23 miles of the 43-mile Highland Scenic Highway, traveling the mountaintops and descending to the Williams River, where fishing opportunities and riverside camping are found. Not far away are the Falls of Hills Creek, which feature a boardwalk beside a mountain stream that leads to the first of three impressive waterfalls.
Of course, there are many other mountain towns to explore, each offering a piece of Appalachian culture. In Elkins, relish the traditional music, dance and crafts at the Augusta Festival, a celebration presented by the Augusta Heritage Center every July. Elkins also boasts the Appalachian Forest Discovery Center and renowned scenic railroads.
But of all the communities, Helvetia was the most unexpected. It’s less than an hour’s drive along a paved, twisty road, and the journey is worth it. Built in 1869 by Swiss immigrants, this mountain village is well-preserved. Swiss influences are visible in the buildings, the cuisine, the culture and the festivals.
After a delicious meal at The Hutte Restaurant (menu items include Swiss classics such as rosti, sauerbraten and onion pie), we chatted with residents about their town and its festive seasonal celebrations. During Fasnacht, which is similar to Mardi Gras, people wear masks and burn an effigy of Old Man Winter. In April, the community gathers for ramp suppers, and in September, Helvetia hosts one of the oldest agricultural fairs in the state.
For pure nostalgia, head to Cass, a former logging company town that is home to Cass Scenic Railroad State Park. Riding on this railroad, one of five in the region, is a must-do. Built to haul logs out of this mountainous terrain, the Cass locomotives climb the 1901 grade, pulling open passenger cars as it chugs, chugs up the mountain. At the top, gaze out at the glorious view from West Virginia’s third highest peak, Bald Knob. The town’s structures look as they did during the logging industry’s prime. Immerse yourself in the past by staying overnight in one of the company houses.
From our first visit, the Appalachian Forest had us in awe of the people, the views and the recreation opportunities. It is no exaggeration to say that it’d be impossible to see it all in one lifetime.