Make Your Best…

It’s one thing to fol­low a beer recipe, but it’s an en­tirely dif­fer­ent beast to know the whys and hows and ev­ery­thing in be­tween for the type of beer you’re brew­ing.

Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine - - The Mash - By Josh Weik­ert

A retronym is a term that’s been mod­i­fied to dis­tin­guish it from some­thing sim­i­lar that’s in­vented later—think “acous­tic gui­tar,” which is a name we didn’t need un­til the elec­tric gui­tar was in­vented. Sim­i­larly, un­til the Amer­i­can IPA took over the craft-beer world, English IPA was just… ipa. While it may be viewed as the older, bor­ing un­cle of the in­sane IPAS that now dom­i­nate most beer geeks’ minds, it’s still a phe­nom­e­nal beer to make and drink.

Style: The English IPA is much more than sim­ply a toned-down ver­sion of mod­ern Amer­i­can IPAS. True, the IBU level is lower, but it also makes more ob­vi­ous use of crys­tal malts. When done prop­erly, an English IPA has more body and hops char­ac­ter and bit­ter­ness than the English bit­ters but much bet­ter bal­ance than most Amer­i­can IPAS.

In­gre­di­ents: This ver­sion of English IPA is a bit red­der and a bit lower in al­co­hol than many mod­ern English ver­sions. It takes the lower-grav­ity start­ing point of the tra­di­tional English IPA and adds more of the great English crys­tals. But the key fea­tures—lots of earthy, flo­ral hops balanced by firm bit­ter­ing and crys­tal malt fla­vors—are still there.

Start with 9 lb (4.1 kg) of Maris Ot­ter to yield about 45 grav­ity points. In ad­di­tion, use 0.5 lb (227 g) each of Bri­tish Medium Crys­tal (about 45L), Dark Crys­tal (about 90L), and Ex­tra Dark Crys­tal or “Dark II” (about 120L). This should give you an ABV tar­get of about 5.5 per­cent and great fla­vors such as caramel, tof­fee, and even a bit of cur­rant.

For hopping, add your fa­vorite bit­ter­ing hops at 60 min­utes to yield 45 IBUS. Use some­thing high-al­pha be­cause you’ll add enough hops plant mat­ter in the later stages to start flirt­ing with that veg­e­tal fla­vor you can get from an over­abun­dance of hops. At 10 min­utes, add 1 oz (28 g) each East Kent Gold­ings and Fug­gles, and then at flame-out/whirlpool add 1 oz (28 g) Fug­gles. You’ll also add 1 oz (28 g) Fug­gles post-fer­men­ta­tion as a dry hop.

And for yeast, my beloved Wyeast 1007 (Ger­man Ale) pro­duces clean, slightly es­tery, malt-rounded beers, and it’s a per­fect match for th­ese in­gre­di­ents.

Process: Mash as usual, but if you’re work­ing with soft-to-slightly-hard wa­ter, con­sider a bit of gyp­sum to up the min­eral con­tent and add a nice flinty bite to your fin­ished beer’s bit­ter­ing. I use ¼ tsp in the mash.

Fer­men­ta­tion should be rel­a­tively cool; you don’t want an ester bomb. Be­gin at 64°F (18°C) and hold it there for 3–4 days. Then let it warm to about 69–70°F (20–21°C) to clean up any di­acetyl. A few days af­ter fer­men­ta­tion com­pletes, cold crash and add your dry hops for about 5 days to add a won­der­ful earthy, grassy, flo­ral kick to your beer’s nose! When dry hopping is com­plete, rack out from un­der the hops and pack­age, car­bon­at­ing to about 2 vol­umes of CO2.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.