Beercation: Nashville, Tennessee
Half a decade ago, a national newspaper of record called Nashville one of the country’s bestkept secrets. Talk to the longtime residents today, and they’ll point to that as one of the main reasons almost 100 new people move to the city each day. The metro area is booming, with countless cranes on the horizon and traffic to match. Still, this city, long associated with country music, has managed to retain its Southern charm. The brewing industry has also risen with the times. Get your hat and boots—it’s time to go drinking in Nashville.
TIME WAS THAT YOU could see all of Nashville, Tennessee, in a weekend, and not even a long one. Now, visitors should block off at least the better part of a week to see all the city has to offer. It’s a mix of culinary innovation, live music, history, and more. Beer-wise, there’s a lot to take in.
The city’s oldest brewery, Blackstone Brewing Co., operates a 30-barrel brewhouse on the west end of town. New breweries are in planning, bars are expanding their tap lists, and existing brewing operations are adding taprooms and second brewing facilities.
This city knows how to get down, and as the bachelorette-party capitol of the United States, there’s usually a sense of joy on every street. Rideshare is the way to get around town unless you want to break in those new boots. You can walk just about everywhere (and during rush hour, which now starts around 3:00 p.m., it might be the faster alternative), but be mindful of all the construction. Sidewalk closures are common.
Downtown and SOBRO
The postcard picture of Nashville is honky-tonks spilling their neon onto Lower Broadway. This main thoroughfare has the energy of New Orleans’s Bourbon Street and maybe just as much booze. There is talk of closing it down to vehicular traffic altogether, meaning that soon enough you can get a to-go cup and carry your beer while the songs about heartache, an epic night out, or true love all blend together. This area is home to the famous Ryman Auditorium (get tickets to a broadcast of the Grand Ole Opry if you can) as well as museums dedicated to some of the genre’s biggest stars—the Johnny Cash Museum provides a great perspective on the man in black.
This area caters to tourists, and many locals say they avoid the area at all costs, but for a first-time visitor, it’s still a must-visit. You’ll be able to find craft beer, but you’ll need to ask as this is still a town where Bud, High Life, and Coors are featured prominently. There’s a lot to choose from, but a reliable bet is Robert’s Western World, where the $5.75 cheeseburger goes perfectly with a Gerst amber ale (made by Nashville’s Yazoo Brewing Company). There’s live music all day, from your classic hits to house band Brazilbilly’s cross between country and Latin music.
Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery operates a location at the bottom of Broadway, a stone’s throw from the Cumberland
This city knows how to get down, and as the bachelorette-party capitol of the United States, there’s usually a sense of joy on every street.
River. Beers made in house tend toward the traditional styles, but brewers are known to throw in experimental beers now and again, along with seasonals.
South of Broadway, or SOBRO, has two breweries, both worth a visit. Because of its size, the tiny Czann’s Brewing Co. immediately forces you to become friendly with everyone else in the place. That’s a good thing because bonding over well-made beer is an excellent experience. New Heights Brewing Company runs the gamut of styles, from a simple cream ale to wheat ales with tea and raspberries as well as the double IPAS that you’d expect from a couple of San Diego transplants.
The Gulch
In recent years, the neighborhoods around downtown have asserted their own independence and style, and the Gulch—despite its name—has taken the high road. Luxury brands, white linen–tablecloth restaurants, and luxury apartments call this area home. So do two breweries (for now).
It’s impossible to talk about Nashville beer without talking about Yazoo Brewing Company. Heading into its fifteenth year, the brewery, founded by Linus Hall, brought flavor back to Music City’s beer. You’ll find it on tap and in bottles across the state, but the brewery tasting room, a comfortable, local art–filled space with a picture window that looks onto the brewing floor, is a communal hub where you can enjoy the smoky Baltic porter, Sue, or some of the wild and funky recipes from the Embrace the Funk line. The shaded patio is perfect for pint after pint of Daddy-o, the house Pilsner. This is Yazoo’s second location, and it plans to move into its third in spring 2019 with the current space likely becoming yet another high-rise.
Just down the road is Jackalope Brewing Company, a lively spot that shares space with a coffee shop and turns out bright, hops-forward beers, along with the maple-infused Bearwalker Brown ale. A second location, housing a larger production facility, is slated to open in the coming months.
Nearby is Tennessee Brew Works, a multilevel brewery and restaurant (they also have a kiosk at the airport—get a beer and walk to your gate) with a diverse lineup and one of the best gourmet hot-chicken sandwiches you’ll get in the city.
Music Row/midtown/ Vanderbilt
Home to record companies’ offices, Vanderbilt University, and more residential apartments, this area southwest of downtown has a more causal vibe. Tailgate Beer on Music Row is a large, feel-good space where large parties can gather for weekend shenanigans while knocking back pale ales and flavored milk
stouts. If you like lines, Hattie B’s—the well-known hot-chicken restaurant—has a location nearby that always has a line. Grab a locally made pint while you wait to assault your senses with spice. For an unforgettable dining experience, make reservations in advance for The Catbird Seat, a chef’s table restaurant helmed by the Poli brothers (and true beer fans).
Berry Hill
South of most of the action is Craft Brewed, one of the best bottle shops you’ll come across in the state. With a rotating draft selection and a range of packaged goods, this is the place to be if you have only one day in town and want to try a lot. Plus, you can bring in food, and Bolton’s Spicy Chicken & Fish (one of the best hot-chicken places in town) is across the road.
Germantown
Perhaps the brewery with the most buzz these days is Bearded Iris Brewing, makers of hazy IPAS and an in-demand collaborator. In an industrial part of town, the modest-size taproom with a sunsplashed deck is high on the brewery tick list, especially for those seeking double dry-hopped (DDH) beers.
A new entry on the scene is the bar Kuchina + Keller, which features a well-curated draft and package list and German-inspired fare that will leave you full and happy.
East Nashville
Not every traveler will cross the river to visit the new “it” neighborhood, but those who do will be rewarded. You like lagers? Have a hankering for hops? Smith & Lentz Brewing Company is where you want to be. It’s near the top of every local beer-lover’s list with good reason. The original location for Bolton’s Spicy Chicken & Fish is a few blocks down the street, cash only. Prepare yourself for tears.
A bit farther east is Southern Grist Brewing Co., where kettle sours, flavored IPAS, and all the DDH you can handle pours from the taps. The brewery also operates a taproom in the Centennial neighborhood, on the west side. Across the street from the brewery is Vinyl Tap, a record store and bar that spins and pours all day long.
Western Nashville
Headed west toward Memphis? You can stop at Southern Grist Brewing Co., Fat Bottom Brewing Co., and Tailgate Beer. Stop in and fill up.
South of the City
A trip south of Nashville won’t disappoint.
The Black Abbey Brewing Company mixes Old World brewing recipes with New World flair. Mantra Artisan Ales in Franklin is making culinary-infused beers to complement dishes from south Asia (as well as some closer to home). The brewery also operates a farm brewery, Steel Barrel Brewery, in Murfreesboro, part of the Middle Tennessee State University brewing program. Amid the sprawling shopping complexes along Interstate 65 is the pizza-focused brewpub Cool Springs Brewery. To the east in Nolensville is Mill Creek Brewing Co., which is making big moves to get its canned beer wide and deep across the state.