Extra Special Bitter
Let’s talk about the Cadillac of English pale ales—extra Special Bitter, or ESB. This is one of my favorite styles, and when I want to know whether a brewery is on the right track, it’s one of the “acid-test” beers that I taste to find out.
Style: Some people (this guy) often get into fights over what is and isn’t an ESB. On the one hand, it’s simply another English pale ale—it just happens to be stronger and may have more malt flavor. Others contend that ESB as a style is now and forever tied to the eponymous Fuller’s version, with its higher ABV, richer and fruitier flavor, and stronger hops presence. I’m not going to get into it, but suffice to say that most of what we consider “ESB” is not in the Fuller’s vein, for better or worse. ESB is distinctly English though, with significant malt complexity (usually of the paler variety), a fairly high Ibu-to-gravity ratio, English aroma hops, and British ale yeast. It also benefits from some “water awareness,” as many examples have not only high-ish bittering but a flinty character that accentuates the bitterness. Ingredients: This is a simple recipe, and the key is getting good, authentic ingredients. Thomas Fawcett all the way for me on the grist. In lighter bitters, I generally go with the Fawcett 45L and Victory, but here I want the richness to come through, not just the toast, so I use Fawcett 65L instead of Victory. You may also hear, on occasion, that you should add Lyle’s Golden Syrup or other invert sugars to your ESBS; I won’t tell you not to, but I’ll say that I’ve experimented with them and never noticed a difference. Hops are East Kent Goldings, with enough added late to stand out in the aroma.
Yeast is straightforward here: London ESB. In my other bitter recipes, I prefer the rock-steady London III, but this one is better with just a bit of butterscotch, and the berry, pear, and citrus esters you get from a slightly warm, don’t-worry-about-diacetyl, fermentation are outstanding.
Process: This beer is made in the fermentor. The mash and boil are nothing unusual—but if your water is on the softer side, bump up your sulfates until they balance your chloride. Fermentation temperature is key. You want the esters, and a bit of diacetyl can be nice here, but you don’t want a butter bomb.
This isn’t Fuller’s, but it’s a solid version that offers the kinds of flavors you’d find at pubs across England on any given day. This is a showcase of English malt and hops, pouring a brilliant jewel-like orange color. Bonus: If it comes out all right, it’s a great sign that your home brewery is on the right track.