Texas time traveling
What's old is what's new in history-steeped Jefferson
The pre-Civil War town of Jefferson, Texas, has been called the state's best-kept secret, its best small town and its bed and breakfast capital. It's also been called the Bigfoot capital of Texas because of alleged sightings around the area that led to the creation of Jefferson's annual Bigfoot Conference.
Whatever you call it, Jefferson is a charming and fun town to visit for a long weekend away.
History buffs, fans of vintage and historic homes and landmarks, and lovers of shopping for antiques will enjoy visiting this quaint town in the pine forests 21/2 hours east of Dallas.
Jefferson's permanent population is only about 2,000, but visitors flock to Jefferson throughout the year to attend festivals and other events. Regardless of when you visit, you can take a boat tour of scenic Caddo Lake, visit historic hotels and mansions from the 1800s, shop the antique stores and boutiques, and enjoy interesting museums.
Jefferson boasts more than 100 historical homes and landmarks as well as several bed and breakfast inns, many of them in beautifully restored homes and mansions from the 1800s. Or you can stay at the “haunted” Excelsior House Hotel, built circa 1858 and the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Texas. Famous guests have included Ulysses S. Grant, Oscar Wilde, Rutherford B. Hayes, Lady Bird Johnson and Steven Spielberg.
Visitors can spend an entire day or two walking and exploring the small, historic downtown, which is home to the Museum of Measurement and Time and is within walking distance of the Gone With the Wind Museum.
The Gone With the Wind Museum is typically open Saturdays by reservation, so call ahead. At this delightful spot, you'll see one of the world's largest private collections of memorabilia from the Civil War-era story, from posters to books to dolls and everything else associated with Scarlett and Rhett.
The Museum of Measurement and Time showcases a large private collection of American clocks and early mechanical musical instruments. Also there's the Jefferson Historical Society and Museum, located in a former federal courthouse and post office from 1890. You'll see many artifacts from Jefferson's early days and learn local history.
While walking around downtown, make sure to stop at the Jefferson General Store and, if it's open, the Jay Gould Railroad Car. Gould (1836-1892) was an American railroad developer who traveled in a luxurious private train car that's on display across the street from the Excelsior House Hotel.
You can drop in at the Jefferson Hotel to see all the bizarre and funky décor items that fill this allegedly haunted building, have lunch at the causal Taste of Caddo Café and a great lunch or dinner at McGarity's Restaurant & Saloon, and shop the downtown's antique stores and boutiques.
Another way to explore Jefferson is by taking a narrated tour. One of the best is the golf cart outing led by the Historic Tours of Jefferson. This tour showcases the many restored, historic homes and also goes to the Oakwood Cemetery, which opened around 1846. The narration is rich with colorful stories from Jefferson's past, including tales about the locally famous — or infamous — some of whom are buried at Oakwood. The cemetery has many highly ornamental grave monuments like those found in Louisiana, and it's fascinating.
Also worthwhile is a guided tour of the House of the Seasons, a stunning restored mansion built in 1872 and furnished with period antiques.
A neat place to see that's an easy 20-minute drive from Jefferson is Caddo Lake, a bayou with cypress trees, Spanish moss and beautiful scenery.
Finally, remember to check the dates for the festivals Jefferson hosts throughout the year, including Mardi Gras Upriver, the December Candlelight Tour of Homes, the springtime Historic Pilgrimage (events are listed at jeffersonpilgrimage.com) and the Bigfoot Conference. The nighttime Jefferson ghost walks are also lots of fun.
The Mardi Gras celebration (mardigrasupriver.com) is a big deal in town every year, and the many events associated with it raise money for community groups, charities and businesses. The festivities include a ball, chili cook-off, casino night, games, food vendors and more.
The Historic Pilgrimage is also a big festival, taking place in the spring. There are many fun events to attend including “The Diamond Bessie Murder Trial,” a theatrical production based on the real-life murder of Bessie Moore, a former prostitute who was killed in the woods outside Jefferson in 1877, allegedly by her husband, who was convicted but freed on appeal. (Diamond Bessie is buried in Oakwood Cemetery). The show is held in the Jefferson Playhouse.
As for the Bigfoot Conference, if you are interested in the big furry monster, this year's gathering will be in October.
The Candlelight Tour of Homes (jeffersoncandlelight.com) gives visitors a chance to tour the insides and gardens of historic houses and buildings, all decorated lavishly and decked out in their holiday finest. Each year, different homes, locations or special buildings are chosen to be a part of the tour. Tours are held in the late afternoon and evening. It's one of the top Christmastime events in the region.