Daily Democrat (Woodland)

Global Tea Initiative Colloquium features bestsellin­g writer, tea experts

Novelist Lisa See is keynote speaker for UC Davis event

- By Jeffrey Day

Lisa See, the author of a bestsellin­g novel in which tea plays a central role, will give the keynote address at the sixth annual colloquium for the UC Davis Global Tea Initiative for the Study of Tea Culture and Science.

See’s novel, The Tea Girl of Hummingbir­d Lane, explores the lives of a Chinese mother and the daughter she gave up for adoption by an American couple. While the mother continues the grueling work of farming tea as her family has done for generation­s, her daughter lives a privileged life in California. Both the mother and daughter are torn by their separation and search for answers in tea.

See’s keynote address at 9:30 a.m. will kick off an all-day, online colloquium on Thursday, Jan. 21, titled “The Stories We Tell: Myths, Legends, and Anecdotes About Tea.”

The online event is free and open to all, and will include a wide range of presentati­ons, such as tea cultivatio­n in California, tea and Soviet identity, tea and spirituali­ty in Vietnam, tea in restoratio­n England and the tea collection at London’s Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew. Presentati­ons will be made remotely from Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Great Britain, Colombia and around the United States.

To register and learn more about the colloquium, visit the GTI website.

Shortly after The Tea Girl was published in 2017, Katharine Burnett, director of the Global Tea Initiative, received the novel as a gift from her husband.

“I devoured it,” said Burnett, an art history professor who specialize­s in the history, theory and collection of Chinese art from 1550 to today. The theme for the 2021 colloquium, stories connected to tea, had already been decided when Burnett realized it could connect well to See’s book.

“I reached out to her and she immediatel­y said, ‘I’m in,’” Burnett said. See will be joined in her talk by her research partner Linda Louie, owner of the Bana Tea Company.

To research The Tea Girl, See and Louie visited a tea growing and processing area in China.

“We were living tea 24 hours a day,” See said.

The complex tea culture of Asia provides a rich backdrop for The Tea Girl and other books.

“There is a deep relationsh­ip to philosophy, poetry and art — it just hits so many areas,” See said.

Stories about tea can take many forms: the history of its cultivatio­ns, its role in many cultural practices from religion to art making, to the commercial beverage industry where tales about wine and coffee are rich. This year’s theme grew out of the 2020 colloquium, which featured the comparison of wine and tea cultures, and the successful narratives in the wine industry.

The signature image for the colloquium is a blue and white ceramic tray from the mid-19th century Netherland­s that is decorated with two couples having an animated tea party. It was donated to the GTI by Jeffrey Ruda, UC Davis professor emeritus of art history. The art history program is part of the Department of Art and Art History in the College of Letters and Science.

While the wine and coffee industries have done a good job of telling their story and selling their products, tea has lagged far behind even though it is more widely consumed than wine and coffee, Burnett said. According to her sources, tea is a $12 billion industry, far surpassed by coffee at $80 billion and wine at $70 billion.

Burnett said she hopes that the inclusion of See as this year’s keynote speaker and the online format — made necessary by restrictio­ns under COVID-19 — will make the event even more broadly appealing and accessible than in the past.

“The upside is more people can attend, and we’ve heard participan­ts will be joining us from Japan, Taiwan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Australia, Kenya, Great Britain and the Americas,” she said. “We should have a much larger attendance. And that’s saying something. GTI Colloquium audiences typically range from 400 to 600 people.”

For the 2021 colloquium, the GTI conducted an internatio­nal call for presentati­ons, casting a much wider net than ever before. GTI also just launched the Internatio­nal Society of Global Tea Scholars, an organizati­on that all who research and work on tea at research institutio­ns or in the industry can join. The inaugural meeting will be held online Jan. 22.

“The colloquium features scholars and students, experts and industry profession­als, and will cover topics from the humanities and social sciences to science, agricultur­e and health,” Burnett said. “Attendees will gain deep understand­ing of tea, tea culture and the business of tea. UC Davis led the way for the study of wine 50 years ago — transformi­ng California into a powerful wine producer,” she said. “Now, through GTI, UC Davis is leading the way for California to become an important tea producer.”

 ?? COURTESY — LISA SEE AND LINDA LOUIE ?? A man harvests pu-erh tea in China.
COURTESY — LISA SEE AND LINDA LOUIE A man harvests pu-erh tea in China.

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