Daily Freeman (Kingston, NY)

Beef tenderloin gets a festive remake

- By Elizabeth Karmel

As much as I love prime rib, beef tenderloin is much easier to prepare, easier to carve and the leftovers are good cold.

The only challenge with beef tenderloin is that it is lean (little to no fat) and it is best served rare. I wanted to do something that looked a little fancier than plain grilled tenderloin but was just as easy to execute. I thought about one of my favorite ways to prepare filet — baconwrapp­ed — and thought, let’s see what happens if I wrap the whole tenderloin in bacon mummy style.

I proceeded to wrap room-temperatur­e bacon around the tenderloin, tucking the end pieces under the center of the tenderloin to make sure that it was all roughly the same size. When bacon is room temperatur­e, it will stick to itself and you don’t need toothpicks to secure it. Make sure to purchase a standard thin-cut bacon and make each piece slightly overlap the other, so it will bake into a beautiful bacon crust.

Finally, to make it festive, I decided to add a rich green peppercorn sauce scented with fresh thyme and a splash of cognac. This is now my favorite presentati­on for beef tenderloin. I love the mash-up of the bacon-wrap with the old-school sauce. It just goes to show you that everything old can be new again.

BACON-WRAPPED BEEF TENDERLOIN

Serves: 10 Start to Finish: 90 minutes 1 trimmed tenderloin, center cut, about 4-5 pounds Olive oil Salt and pepper 1 pound thin-cut bacon, at room temperatur­e Fresh thyme leaves for garnish Green Peppercorn and Thyme sauce ( see below) Preheat oven to 325 F Brush tenderloin with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Tuck the small ends of the tenderloin under each side to make sure that the roast is about the same thickness all over.

Beginning at one side, wrap the bacon around the tenderloin, overlappin­g the pieces of bacon so that they stick to each other. Make sure that the ends of the bacon are tucked under.

Place bacon-wrapped tenderloin on a rack set into a pan with the ends of the bacon touching the rack so the bacon doesn’t unravel.

Roast at 325 F for 60 minutes or until a thermomete­r reaches 125 F. Remove and let rest for 20 minutes, covered with foil. If you use thin-cut bacon, it should be crisp, but if you want the bacon to be crispier, you can broil the roast for 1-2 minutes before removing from the oven.

Slice and garnish with fresh thyme leaves. Serve with sauce on the side.

GREEN PEPPERCORN AND THYME SAUCE

2 tablespoon­s butter 3 tablespoon­s white wine vinegar

Combine the butter, vinegar, shallot, cognac and mustard in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. When the liquid is reduced, add 2 tablespoon­s heavy cream and whisk until it is incorporat­ed. This addition of the cream will help prevent the sauce from breaking.

Next start adding the butter, cube by cube. Whisk continuall­y. When the first cube of butter is almost melted, add another and repeat until all of the butter is incorporat­ed.

Add the cream and a dash of Tabasco if using, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add about 5 sprigs of thyme and let sit in the hot sauce for 10 minutes.

While the mixture is still warm, strain through a fine strainer. Mix in the thyme leaves and peppercorn­s if using. Use immediatel­y or keep in a pitcher in a warm water bath. If it breaks, you can reincorpor­ate with a little heavy cream or by using an immersion blender.

Nutrition informatio­n per serving: 467 calories; 283 calories from fat; 31 g fat (11 g saturated; 1 g trans fats); 141 mg cholestero­l; 380 mg sodium; 1 g carbohydra­te; 0 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 45 g protein.

 ?? RICHARD DREW — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? 1 large shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoon­s) 3 tablespoon­s cognac or brandy 1 tablespoon strong Dijon mustard 1⁄2 cup heavy cream 1 stick (1⁄2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1 dash Tabasco or other favorite hot sauce, optional 2 teaspoons thyme, plus 8-10 sprigs for infusing and garnish 1 tablespoon green peppercorn­s, pressed dry Fine-grain sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste This photo shows a Bacon-Wrapped Beef Tenderloin with Green Peppercorn and Thyme Sauce from a recipe by Elizabeth Karmel at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. Beef tenderloin is much easier to prepare than prime rib, easier to carve and the leftovers are good cold. The only challenge with beef tenderloin is that it is lean, so it’s best served rare.
RICHARD DREW — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS 1 large shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoon­s) 3 tablespoon­s cognac or brandy 1 tablespoon strong Dijon mustard 1⁄2 cup heavy cream 1 stick (1⁄2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1 dash Tabasco or other favorite hot sauce, optional 2 teaspoons thyme, plus 8-10 sprigs for infusing and garnish 1 tablespoon green peppercorn­s, pressed dry Fine-grain sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste This photo shows a Bacon-Wrapped Beef Tenderloin with Green Peppercorn and Thyme Sauce from a recipe by Elizabeth Karmel at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. Beef tenderloin is much easier to prepare than prime rib, easier to carve and the leftovers are good cold. The only challenge with beef tenderloin is that it is lean, so it’s best served rare.

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