Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)

Dining’s just fine in the Philly burbs

- Tony Leodora Columnist

I realize that tomorrow is Valentine’s Day … but the love affair is over. Kaput. Finished. Yes, in order for love to survive, people must work at it. But, frankly, it has become too hard … too much work … too aggravatin­g.

I’m talking about my long-term love affair … with the Philadelph­ia restaurant scene.

It goes way back to my pre-marriage days – in the ’80s – when so many Friday and Saturday night dates involved dinner in one of a long list of trendy restaurant­s. Yes, there was good food and good service. But the more appealing part of dining downtown was the exciting scene and the wonderful ambiance.

Some of those favorite restaurant­s are long gone – Di Lullo Centro on Broad and Locust, the Monte Carlo Living Room on South Street, Frederick’s on Front Street and Old Original Bookbinder’s on 2nd and Walnut.

There are still plenty of great restaurant­s in Philadelph­ia. More than ever. However, the trouble to get there – and the cost – is too much to bear.

On a recent trip to Del Frisco’s – one of the trendiest and highest rated Center City spots – we encountere­d excellent food and service … plus a lively social scene. But the rest of the night caused me to write off, what once was a frequent “downtown night out,” forever.

It’s just not worth it. Allow me to recount some of the negatives.

•Leaving Lafayette Hill at 6 p.m. on a Tuesday night, we barely made our 7:30 dinner reservatio­n

•As soon as we turned off Ben Franklin Parkway and started to make our way through the city streets, we encountere­d a never-ending, barely navigable blockade of potholes and washboard asphalt. Add cost of front-end alignment.

•We could not get anywhere near the valet parking drop in front of the restaurant and parked in a parking garage a block away … to the tune of $24 for two hours. Add another $2 to get our car back from the daredevil garage attendant.

•Making our way past three street panhandler­s on the way to the restaurant.

•Two plain old, vodka martinis at the bar … $31. Plus a $5 tip to the bartender.

•Two trips to the men’s restroom … another $1 each trip for the attendant who is stationed inside a bathroom all night because someone decided I am unable to get my own paper towel to dry my hands.

•Did I mention the 8 percent sales tax in the city, as opposed to 6 percent on this side of City Line Avenue?

•Then there was the return trip to the parking garage. As soon as we turned onto Sampson Street, in waning light, a figure popped out of the shadows and confronted me face-to-face. His question: “Did you hear about the restaurant on the moon? Good food, but no atmosphere?” Dinner and a show … a la 2017.

•Finally, there is always the added appeal of Philadelph­ia being a sanctuary city. We’ll save that debate for another time.

It was during the drive home, that the culinary epiphany took place. There is no longer any reason to subject yourself to the rigors of an evening in Center City Philly … just to enjoy a fine dining experience.

Mike Driban, founder and owner of Black Cat Cigars on Germantown Pike

in East Norriton, heard my tale of woe and offered some sagely wisdom.

“There was a day, 20 or 30 years ago, when you had to go downtown if you wanted fine dining,” he said. “There were places to eat in the suburbs but they

were just places to eat. Now, that’s not the case. There are plenty of opportunit­ies for fine dining in the suburbs.”

That got me thinking … and quickly I realized he was right.

I also remembered the words of Ed Harris, vice president of marketing and communicat­ions for the Valley Forge Tourism and Convention Board. He

boasts more than 1,500 suburban restaurant­s on his website, www.valleyforg­e.org.

Then I thought back to my drive home from Center City, always an exciting experience along the infamous Schuylkill Expressway. I remember looking to the left at La Collina, looming above in Belmont Hills. It is the epitome of a civilized dining experience.

Tables are not too close. Acoustics are excellent. Food is high quality and the service is very profession­al.

That began my list of fine dining spots in the suburbs.

Want a great steak? King of Prussia offers just about every high-end steak house imaginable – Sullivan’s, Morton’s, Ruth’s Chris, Capital Grille and Fogo de Chao. And just a few miles away, in Wayne, is Fleming’s.

Partial to non-chain restaurant­s? Creed’s Seafood & Steaks is an iconic spot that once was the only outstandin­g fine dining spot in King of Prussia. Now it

survives just as well, even with all of the competitio­n in the area.

Two other well-known Philadelph­ia fine dining restaurant­s have added locations in King of Prussia recently. One is Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in the new King of Prussia Town Center. The other, LP Steak in the Valley Forge Casino is an outgrowth of Palladino’s on Passyunk Ave. in South Philly, although the original location recently closed after a dispute with the landlord.

Prefer to stay away from the King of Prussia congestion? Skippack is a perfect option … and the Hotel Fiesole is the cream of the crop in the burgeoning restaurant scene along Route 73. Fairview Village financial whiz Rich Wesselt calls it “my favorite restaurant in the area.”

Another up-and-coming location is Ambler. Most of the restaurant­s are of the more casual variety but Bridget’s Steakhouse prides itself on serving fine steaks and seafood in a romantic setting.

Traditiona­l spots such as the Joseph Ambler Inn near Montgomery­ville, the Blue Bell Inn, the William Penn Inn in North Wales, the Dilworthto­wn Inn in West Chester and the Bay Pony Inn in Lederach are all still fine choices for civilized dining.

Philadelph­ia’s society once looked down upon the suburbs as a gathering place for the great unwashed. The city is still the region’s hub for business, industry and travel.

But, when it comes to an evening of fine dining, I am going to take the path of least resistance. And that means enjoying one of the great restaurant­s … right here in the suburbs.

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