Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)
Kosher beer, bourbon and barbecue event set for Aug. 26
“Fire up your smokers.” Promptly at 8.30 p.m on the eve of Saturday, Aug. 26, when the Jewish Sabbath ends, the command will resound across the grounds of Temple Beth Hillel Beth El, Wynnewood. It’s the signal from Rabbis Neil Cooper and Marc Israel for 20 grillmasters to spring into action. They will have traveled halfway across the country — from Texas to New York — to compete in the first ever Philadelphia Kosher Barbecue, a grand carnival that goes beyond simple backyard barbecue. Beef ribs, turkey, chicken and brisket will be cooked according to the rules of the Kansas City Barbecue Society, (KCBS) the international gold standard of barbecue judging.
HavaNaGrilla, the “Mother of all Kosher Barbecues,” will be held on Sunday, Aug. 27 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the grounds of Temple Beth Hillel Beth El, 1001 Remington Rd. Wynnewood. 19096. Check phillykosherbbq.com for information and tickets. Tickets are $10 per person, $20 per family.
Dr. Stuart “Stu” Gordon is spearheading the event. A busy orthopedic surgeon, with boundless energy and vision, his eyes light up as he explains, “there’s nothing like it. It’s not just a barbecue, it’s a kosher event on a grand scale. A carnival for the whole family. Besides food, there will be live music, games for kids, contests, Scotch and Bourbon tastings,” and, he chuckles, “there’s even a mechanical bull.”
He went to a Men’s Club meeting in the winter of 2016 armed with a Power Point program. He wanted to stir up excitement. “Besides good food and family entertainment, it’s a way of teaching Jewish values and kindle community spirit,” Gordon said The men were impressed. News spread. In no time, the number of volunteers swelled to 100. They came not only from Temple Beth Hillel Beth El but from other temples and the non-Jewish community.
Howard Elgart and Allan Horowitz, energized by Gordon’s passion and commitment, immediately jumped on board as co-chairs. “Stu’s enthusiasm was so contagious, straightaway I offered to set up a team” said Elgart. “Almost everyone I asked said yes. Now we’re all pulling together giving time and energy to make HavaNaGrilla an outstanding success. It’s tzedakah — charity.” Proceeds will benefit the Jewish Federation of Greater Philadelphia’s Mitzvah project and the Narberth Community Food Bank.
Eager to gather as much information as possible, Gordon called the late Dr. Walter Hofman in Florida. The retired forensic pathologist had topped off his credentials with one in the culinary field. He was among the first to receive a Certified Barbecue Judge award by KCBS, #195. “He was a barbecue fanatic, just like me,” laughed Gordon. “We talked for hours. He gave me pointers on how to get it started, who to contact, what we needed — a million essential tips. Then it really took off.” He added, “I felt cheated when just a month before we were due to meet, Dr. Hofman passed away.” In his memory, the Dr. Walter Hofman Cup will be presented to the winning team.
As a barbecue judge certified by KCBS, Gordon was determined that the organization should sanction the contest to “give the event credibility.” But there were no guidelines for a kosher barbecue. Gordon contacted Randy Bigler, president of KCBS, who said, “it would be a challenge but I knew just the man who could help us.” Rabbi Mendel Segal of Kansas City Chabad had supervised five kosher barbecues in Kansas City but they were not endorsed by KCBS. He was ready to work with Carol Bigler, Randy’s wife, on the project; to create a handbook of rules for the organization of community kosher barbecues.
Bigler, who lives in Alabama, collaborated with Rabbi Segal in Kansas City via email and phone calls. They began to work on the handbook in February 2016. Bigler didn’t meet the young Orthodox rabbi until August. By then a firm friendship and close working relationship had been established – and the KCBS Kosher Barbecue Handbook was completed.
Throwing meat on a grill, slathering it with sauce, is not true barbecue. The real thing is cooked over indirect heat, usually over wood, long and slow. Brisket is cooked, lovingly watched over for 18 hours. The resulting flavor is a mouthwatering combination of wood smoke, meat juices, and whatever spices or rub have been added. And not all barbecue is the same. Flavors and meats vary by region. The four main styles are named after the place of origin: Memphis, Tenn: North Carolina: Kansas City and Texas. Memphis is renowned for pulled pork doused in a sweet tomato based sauce (definitely not kosher) but in Western Texas, you’ll find mesquitegrilled “cowboy style” brisket.
The fuel, charcoal or wood chips, is lit by means of a charcoal chimney. The metal cylinder is stuffed with newspaper, set on top and set alight. Besides brisket, there will be whole turkeys, beef shortribs and chicken quarters. Team members take turns keeping watch on an overnight marathon. Temperatures must be controlled, meats gently basted, often with their own blends of rubs and sauces. Keeping to the strict rules of kashruth, each ingredient must be certified kosher, all utensils, smokers and grills are brand new, never used before and all meats used will have a kosher certification.
From nightfall on Aug. 26 through Aug. 27, a mashgiach, a Jewish person trained in the meticulous handling and inspection of foods according to Jewish law, will be on hand. Alon Shaya of New Orleans, the celebrity chef guest judge, was recently voted the “Best Chef of the South” and his restaurant Shaya was voted America’s Best Restaurant by Esquire magazine.