Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)
COOLER DAYS, RICHER FLAVORS
Autumn lends itself to hearty fare like slow-cooked lamb for a dinner party
Ah, breathe in the aroma of slow-roasted meat melding with plenty of garlic and fresh herbs. The house takes on the scent of what I imagine to be a French farmhouse with a talented home cook at the helm. An autumn menu with luscious, full-flavored dishes can celebrate the shorter days and cooler evenings; it can be the cornerstone of a small dinner gathering.
Autumn is such a great time to bring a few friends together. Cookbook maven and Food Network star Ina Garten has mastered a fourhour leg of lamb that would be hard to beat. The technique of low and slow braising seems to create a sense of luxury and liberation.
At serving time, carving isn’t required because the lamb is too tender to slice. Pull-apart pieces are served warm in large, shallow bowls. Diners’ large place-setting spoons scoop up the meat along with reduced, wine-based braising juices and Provençal white beans spiked with celery, carrots, garlic and fresh herbs.
Before the lamb is served, a multicolored salad of golden beets, oranges and red onion brightens the lineup. It is napped with a shallot and fresh tarragon (or basil) vinaigrette made ahead. A light sprinkle of crumbled goat cheese adorns the top. The hues reflect the season, and everything except the assembly can be prepared in advance.
Some may argue that ice cream doesn’t seem apropos for a fall menu, but in this case, it seems to be the ticket. The oven is tied up for hours with that gently cooking lamb, so baking is probably out. Besides, ice cream sundaes topped with homemade hot fudge sauce are delicious no matter the season. Small ones are probably best in this case.
My favorite hot fudge sundae uses a chocolate ice cream amped with peanut butter (such as Breyer’s Chocolate With Peanut Butter). Riffing on the peanut butter theme, I add a small sprinkling of salted, roasted peanuts as a garnish on top of the hot fudge. Add whipped cream, if you like, and perhaps a crisp cookie.
Welcome, autumn. Dig in.
Ina’s Four-Hour Leg of Lamb With White Beans Yield: 6-8 servings
INGREDIENTS One 6- to 7-pound bone-in leg of lamb; see cook’s notes Extra-virgin olive oil 1tablespoon kosher salt and 2teaspoons freshly ground black pepper One (750-ml) bottle dry white wine 2heads of garlic, broken apart into cloves but not peeled 15large sprigs fresh rosemary 15large sprigs fresh thyme 6bay leaves Cook’s notes: Before you buy the lamb, measure the diameter of your pot. If the lamb is longer than your pot, ask the butcher to cut off the shank end of the lamb, then cook both pieces together in the same pot. I generally do this no matter the measurement because it makes it easier to turn when searing the meat.
PROCEDURE
1: Preheat the oven to 300degrees. Generously rub lamb all over with olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper. Heat a very large, ovenproof Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it’s hot. Add the lamb and sear on all sides for about 12minutes until browned all over. Remove the lamb to a plate. 2: Add the wine and 2cups of water to the pan and cook for a minute or two, scraping up all the brown bits in the bottom. Add the garlic, rosemary, thyme and bay leaves and the lamb on top. Place the lid on the pot and bake in the oven for 4hours, basting occasionally. (If you don’t have a lid, you can cover it tightly with 2layers of aluminum foil.) 3: After 4hours, the lamb should be incredibly tender and falling off the bone. Remove the lamb to a plate, cover it tightly with foil and allow it to rest. Strain the sauce into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10minutes to reduce. It will still be brothy. Taste it and adjust seasoning, adding more salt if needed. 4. Presentation: The lamb will be too tender to slice; serve it warm in large, shallow bowls with plenty of brothy sauce and beans (bean recipe follows). Provide large spoons to diners. Sprinkle on a smidgen more of chopped fresh parsley if desired. Source: Ina Garten, Food Network
Provençal White Beans
Yield: 6-8 servings INGREDIENTS 14-16 ounces dried Great Northern beans; see cook’s notes 1quart homemade chicken stock or sodium-reduced canned chicken broth 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2cups chopped yellow onions 1 cup diced carrots 1cup diced celery 1⁄4 cup fresh chopped parsley, plus extra for garnish 1tablespoon minced garlic 2tablespoons minced fresh rosemary 2tablespoons minced fresh thyme 1⁄3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Cook’s notes: Dried Great Northern white beans are often sold in 1-pound bags. I often use the larger amount and cook as directed. If you have leftover beans, turn them into a meal by serving the reheated beans with a little crumbled feta and a fried egg on top. PROCEDURE 1: Place the beans in a bowl and cover with water by 2inches. Soak in the refrigerator overnight. 2: Drain the beans, place in a large saucepan with the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30-40minutes or until tender but not mushy. Add 1tablespoon of salt for the last 10minutes of cooking. Drain, reserving broth. 3: In a large, deep skillet, heat olive oil and add onions, carrots and celery. Cook over low heat for 10-15minutes until tender. Add parsley, garlic, rosemary and thyme; cook 1minute. 4: Add beans and 2cups of the cooking broth. If you don’t have enough liquid, add additional broth or water to make 2cups. Cook for 15minutes until the broth makes a little sauce, adding more broth if necessary. 5: Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and chopped fresh parsley. Source: Ina Garten, Food Network
Orange and Roasted Beet Salad With Candied Nuts
Yield: 4 servings INGREDIENTS Vinaigrette: 2 teaspoons finely diced shallots, 1teaspoon salt, 1 1⁄2 teaspoons cider vinegar, 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 2teaspoons minced fresh tarragon or basil, freshly ground black pepper 1⁄4 red onion, peeled, cut into thin crosswise slices 2(3if small) navel oranges 2-3cups mixed baby lettuces or baby arugula One 9-ounce box of steamed and peeled cubed golden beets 1⁄3 cup store-bought glazed (candied) walnuts or pecans Optional: 1⁄2 cup crumbled, chilled goat cheese Cook’s notes: Steamed and peeled ready-to-use golden beets are often sold in supermarket produce sections. If you can’t find the golden beets, substitute steamed and peeled red beets (usually the red beets are whole and require dicing or slicing). PROCEDURE 1. Prepare vinaigrette: In a small bowl with a handle, combine shallots, salt and vinegar; stir to combine. Add oil and tarragon; stir to combine. Add freshly ground black pepper to taste. Set aside. 2: Place red onion slices in ice water; set aside for about 15minutes. Peel and slice oranges. The easiest way is to cut off top and bottom of the orange, cutting just deep enough to reach the flesh. Place one cut edge on work surface and cut off strips of peel from top to bottom following the contour of the orange. If some pith (white part) remains, cut that off. Cut into crosswise slices. 3: Drain and pat onion slices dry. Divide baby lettuces or baby arugula on 4salad plates. Arrange orange slices and drained onion slices on top. Scatter beets and candied walnuts on top of orange slices. 4: Stir vinaigrette and drizzle over salads. If desired, top with crumbled goat cheese. Serve.
Hot Fudge Sauce
Yield: 6-8 small sundaes INGREDIENTS 6ounces bittersweet chocolate (not chips), finely chopped 3⁄4 cup heavy whipping cream 3tablespoons light corn syrup 2 tablespoons granulated sugar For a salted peanut sundae: chocolate-peanut butter ice cream, coarsely chopped salted roasted peanuts Cook’s notes: For tips on how to serve, see story. If desired for makeahead ease, a few hours in advance scoop ice cream into ball shapes and freeze on a parchment-lined baking sheet. PROCEDURE 1: In medium saucepan, place all ingredients. Stir constantly over medium to medium-low heat until chocolate melts and mixture forms small bubbles around the edge of the pan, about 5minutes. 2: Stir for 2additional minutes while it gently simmers. Use now or transfer to heatproof container, cover and refrigerate until needed, up to two weeks ahead.