Daily News (Los Angeles)

Sweet AS chocolate Chocolate icebox cookies Five ingredient chocolate truffles

Easter isn't the same without treats like these

- By Cathy Thomas Correspond­ent Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThoma­sCooks.com.

Some food memories are forever stuck in my noggin. One that remains from early childhood involves chocolate bunnies. At 4, I requested that the Easter Bunny bring a basket filled with treats that were green, my favorite color. I didn't know much about candy and had no knowledge of chocolate. My mother had a low opinion of sugar consumptio­n, and desserts were relegated to holiday menus, most often showcased in tart fruit pies. The Easter Bunny brought me chocolate bunnies along with a note of apology, explaining that bunnies weren't available in a greenish hue. I can remember that joyous taste of that first bunny's ear. Bingo! Creamy sweetness edged with a subtle bitter note, complex irresistib­ility.

Chocolate erased my desire for anything else on my Easter list. Forever after, Easter has provided a bounty of chocolate. Dark brown, milky brown and all shades in between. Here are recipes to make your Easter a chocolate delight. According to “The Joy of Cooking,” by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker (Scribner, 1997, $30), what Rombauer called “icebox cookies” in the 1931 edition were renamed “refrigerat­or cookies” in the '50s by Becker. But “Joy,” along with many other cookbooks, returned to the original nomenclatu­re. “Icebox” harks back to a bake-from-scratch, bygone era. Somehow it seems a lot homier. The recipe originally called for mint chocolate chips. Yield: about 3 1/2 dozen

INGREDIENT­S

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup unsweetene­d cocoa powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (11/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperatur­e

Optional: 1 1/4 teaspoons peppermint extract

1teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup sugar

1 egg

Garnish: 6 ounces coating chocolate or semisweet chocolate, either white or dark, chopped, or mint chocolate chips

DIRECTIONS

1. Whisk flour, cocoa powder and salt in medium bowl to blend.

2. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until smooth. Beat in peppermint extract (if using) and vanilla extract. Beat in sugar in 3 additions. Add egg and beat until blended. Add dry ingredient­s and beat just until blended (dough will be sticky).

3. Divide dough between 2 sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper. Using plastic wrap or wax paper as aid, form dough on each into 2-inch-diameter log. Refrigerat­e dough until well-chilled, at least 2 hours.

4. Position 1 rack in center and 1 rack in top third of oven; preheat to 350degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Unwrap cookie dough logs; roll briefly on work surface to form smooth round logs. Cut logs crosswise into 1/4-inchthick rounds. Place rounds on prepared baking sheets, spacing 1 inch apart. Bake cookies until tops and edges are dry to touch, about 15minutes. Transfer baking sheets with cookies to racks; cool completely.

5. Stir chocolate in top of double boiler set over simmering water until melted and smooth. Remove from over water. Chocolate should only be warm enough to melt, not hot. You can either dip half of each cookie in the white or dark chocolate (and allow to harden on a sheet of wax paper) or place melted white chocolate in a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip and pipe polka dots or zigzags on the top of each cooled cookie. Refrigerat­e cookies on baking sheets until chocolate is set, about 10minutes. If you use coating chocolate (such as Candiquik) it will harden at room temperatur­e and no refrigerat­ion is needed. Source: Adapted from “Bon Appetit Desserts,” by Barbara Fairchild (Andrews McMeel, $40)

Warm mocha tart

Alice Medrich, a baker, cookbook author and businesswo­man, focuses on desserts made with chocolate with a higher percentage of cocoa bean solids and less sugar than milk chocolate in her cookbook “Bitterswee­t: Recipes and Tales From a Life in Chocolate.” Some versions use a chocolate crust for this warm mocha tart, but this rendition omits the cocoa powder in the crust, making it very easy to work with. If you like, sprinkle the tart with a smidgen of flaky sea salt just before serving.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

INGREDIENT­S

Crust:

8tablespoo­ns (1stick) unsalted butter, melted

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup all-purpose flour

Filling:

3tablespoo­ns unsalted butter, cut into chunks 1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup unsweetene­d cocoa powder, Dutch-process cocoa preferred; see cook's notes

1 cup heavy whipping cream

11/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder, such as Medaglia d'Oro, or 1 1/2 teaspoons instant coffee crystals

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Cook's notes: Dutch-process cocoa powder is made with alkali, which gives it a less bitter flavor. It's sold online and at some supermarke­ts with large specialty baking sections.

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to lower third of oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Prepare crust: Mix melted butter, sugar, salt and vanilla in medium bowl. Add flour and mix just until blended. Don't worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of dough very thinly and evenly into bottom and up sides of 91/2-inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom. Bake 20-25minutes, or until crust is deep golden brown.

3. Meanwhile, make filling: Place 3 tablespoon­s butter, sugar, cocoa powder and cream in medium saucepan; cook on medium heat, stirring, until blended, smooth and beginning to simmer around edges. Remove from heat and stir in espresso powder and vanilla.

4. Just before crust is ready, whisk egg thoroughly into hot chocolate mixture. Pour filling into hot crust and turn off oven. Leave tart in oven until it quivers like gelatin in center when pan is nudged, about 10to 12minutes. Cool on rack. Serve warm or at room temperatur­e. Source: “BitterSwee­t: Recipes and Tales From a Life in Chocolate,” by Alice Medrich (Artisan) Here's a microwave shortcut that makes quick work of ganache. A mix of heated chocolate and heavy whipping cream, the ganache is microwaved for a couple of minutes. Stir occasional­ly with a silicone or rubber spatula. This recipe adds a little salt to the mix; it amplifies the bitterswee­t chocolate's complex flavors.

Yield: About 24

INGREDIENT­S

1/4 cup (3/4 ounce) unsweetene­d cocoa powder

1tablespoo­n powdered sugar

8ounces bitterswee­t chocolate, finely chopped

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

Pinch of salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Sift cocoa powder and powdered sugar though a fine-mesh strainer into a pie plate. Microwave chocolate, cream and salt in microwave-safe bowl at 50% power, stirring occasional­ly with silicone (or rubber) spatula, until melted and smooth, 2to 4minutes. Stir mixture until fully combined. Transfer to an 8-inch baking dish and refrigerat­e until set, about 45 minutes.

2. Using a heaping teaspoon measure, scoop chocolate mixture into 24portions. I speed up the process using a very small ice cream scoop instead of a measuring spoon. Place on a large plate and refrigerat­e until firm, about 30 minutes. Roll each truffle between your hands to form balls (they don't need to be perfect).

3. Transfer truffles to cocoa mixture and roll to evenly coat. Lightly shake truffles in your hand over pie plate to remove excess coating and transfer to platter. Refrigerat­e for 30 minutes. Let sit at room temperatur­e for 10 minutes before serving. (To make ahead, coated truffles can be refrigerat­ed along with excess cocoa mixture in an airtight container for up to one week. Shake truffles in your hand to remove excess coating and allow them to sit at room temperatur­e for 10 minutes before serving.) Source: “America's Test Kitchen Everything Chocolate” (America's Test Kitchen)

 ?? PHOTO BY CATHY THOMAS ?? Chocolate icebox cookies hark back to a bygone, bake-from-scratch era.
PHOTO BY CATHY THOMAS Chocolate icebox cookies hark back to a bygone, bake-from-scratch era.
 ?? GETTY IMAGES ?? A dash of instant coffee or espresso perks up this warm mocha tart.
GETTY IMAGES A dash of instant coffee or espresso perks up this warm mocha tart.
 ?? PHOTO BY CATHY THOMAS ?? Using the microwave will speed up these five ingredient chocolate truffles.
PHOTO BY CATHY THOMAS Using the microwave will speed up these five ingredient chocolate truffles.
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