Spot of removed tree may be poor place for new one
Q. We recently had a huge three-trunked maple tree removed. Two of the trees were rotted and the third was damaged by carpenter ants. The stump diameter was 4 feet and was ground up. A lot of the wood chips were removed, but we now have a large ugly area right by our deck. We have been told two things by “tree specialists” — we cannot plant anything there for six months and that we can never plant anything there again. Do you have any advice? We are planning to temporarily (or maybe forever, if that comment was accurate) arrange large containers of plants on top of the soil/wood chip mixture. — P. Johnson, Chesapeake
A. Never is a long time, but I do understand where they are coming from. Four feet in diameter — that is a large tree with a very expansive root system. And although the stump was ground, the roots extend well beyond the base of the tree. The best possible option would be a new planting site with fresh soil. Now is the time for a fresh start, so take time to carefully consider what and where. Perhaps the former spot was never the best option anyway.
But there are a number of reasons planting in the same spot may not be desirable. Davey Tree Expert Co. and University of Illinois Extension suggest these:
1. Remnants of the removed tree may interfere with the establishment of the new tree and not provide adequate rooting depth for nutrient and water uptake and stability.
2. If the removed tree was diseased, the site may still harbor the pathogen.
3. Sawdust/mulch from the grinding at the site may change the soil’s nutrient balance with a high carbon-to-nitrogen ratio that can compromise nutrient availability.
4. The old tree may have removed many of the essential nutrients that the young tree will require.
5. Potential settling of the new tree could occur within the cavity of the former tree.
Davey recommends locating the new tree at least 6 to 8 feet from the base of the old tree. If it is absolutely necessary to replant in the same spot, you should consider the following:
1. If possible, wait at least a year for the remaining roots to decompose. This should help make your site preparation at bit easier.
2. If a soil-borne disease was responsible for your tree’s demise, consider picking another type tree.
3. Before planting, remove as many roots and sawdust/chips from the hole, and replace with topsoil/compost. In either case, late fall to winter is the best time to complete the job and ensure that your new tree gets off to a proper start.
And one more thing
The hot weather of the past few weeks may have taken a toll on your vegetable and herb garden. Consider making some mid- to late-season additions. Look around for some good-size transplants and choose varieties that are early maturing. Fall transplants, such as collards and kale, are now available. Inventory your direct-sow types so you can be ready for the fall season. Many people have turned to gardening during the pandemic, and I’ve found some seed difficult to obtain. Place your orders now to help ensure you have what you need.
Be sure to keep a close eye on your plants during this extended hot weather. Keep an eye on the sun and know where and when your hot spots are. Herbaceous annuals and perennials will require frequent monitoring. Container plantings have limited root mass and may dry out quickly depending on their exposure. Newly established trees and shrubs have not had time to establish expansive root systems that enable them to obtain the water they need. The article “Watering Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs” from Minnesota Cooperative Extension, found at bit.ly/shrubandtreecare, offers additional tips.
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