A TASTE OF COLOMBIA
Rosa Colombian Bar and Grill in Newport News features traditional dishes, tasty pork rinds and sweet plantains panfried to perfection
Last month, I heard about a new restaurant on Facebook from a “taste bud” — a foodie friend. I made my way to Rosa Colombian Bar and Grill, a casual dining spot in Newport News. It opened in April, closed for about two weeks for repairs, then reopened in May.
Owner Oscar Parra explained — through a translator — that he started Rosa in his native Colombia with his partner in 2003. It focused on Mexican foods, though. When Parra took it over, he changed the name and placed emphasis on fare from his native country.
I’m glad he did. As a first-timer trying the cuisine, it didn’t disappoint nor break the bank.
I entered the large dining room around midday. Rectangular tables filled one side while the other side contained a pool table with additional seating. The staff greeted me while Latin music played in the background.
I browsed the extensive menu of sandwiches (including shredded beef ), chicken (including wings), seafood (such as grilled salmon). I started with the limonada cerezada, a cherry lemonade slush. It was a refreshing sweet and sour drink.
I stared at the appetizer list; three of them came with a choice of side. I selected the chicharrón (pork rinds) and the ensalada de la casa, a salad with tomato, corn, summer squash, lettuce and dressing. I caught myself moving my shoulders to the beat of a song as I chewed my fried rinds. I loved the soft fatty parts as much as the hard crunchy ones.
For my main course, I picked the bandeja paisa, a traditional dish. When it arrived, it reminded me of an English breakfast with its beans, fried eggs, sausage and fried bread. An egg sat atop a bed of plain rice which I’m generally not a fan of. I broke the yolk so that the heat wouldn’t cook it further, and the yellow liquid made the fluffy grain creamy and worth consuming. The juicy Colombian sausage was tasty — those with sensitive stomachs would appreciate the gentle spice. The red kidney beans sat in a lightly seasoned broth that added freshness to the plate along with half an avocado.
I was surprised by the large portion of crumbled beef. It filled me up before I could finish it. The sweet plantains were another story. They were panfried to perfection and their caramelization and sweetness were addicting. I devoured them. I didn’t need another pork rind but one came with the entrée. I still ate it and enjoyed it as much as the first ones. My least favorite item on the plate was the arepa paisa (fried flatbread). It didn’t have much flavor other than a hint of corn and it had a doughy texture. Still, after all that lusciousness, I convinced myself that the bandeja paisa should be my go-to brunch meal.
I was stuffed and couldn’t eat another bite. However, the restaurant offered five desserts that all came with ice cream. I was tempted to get the brownie con helado from the description alone: brownie with ice cream, blackberry sauce and whipped cream.
I made a mental note to order it during my next visit.
Rekaya Gibson, rekaya.gibson@ virginiamedia.com, 757-295-8809; on Twitter @gibsonrekaya
IF YOU GO
Where: 12715 Warwick Blvd., Newport News.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays; noon to 9 p.m. Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays; noon to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; closed on Tuesdays (don’t pay attention to the internet search)
Prices: Appetizers, $2.50 to $7; entrees, $6 to $24
Details: tinyurl.com/ rosacolombiangrill,
757-930-0009