Chicken and whiskey
Birds and Bourbon in Norfolk and the Neat Bird in Chesapeake feature fried chicken and brown liquor
In 2019, I read in O Magazine that champagne pairs well with fried chicken. It cuts the grease, cleanses the palate and balances the crusty skin. I’ve seen other fried chicken pairings lately, particularly with bourbon and whiskey. The spirits tend to have sweet, smoky, woody, oaky and spicy profiles, depending on the brand. They complement the texture and taste. I can see why some people prefer them.
Two restaurants opened recently that feature fried chicken and brown liquor and each brings a flair to the dining experience.
Birds and Bourbon opened in January on Granby Street in downtown Norfolk.
You’re not going to find cows or pigs on the menu; this is a bird joint so expect chicken, turkey and duck. The spot serves breakfast and brunch entrees such as omelets, biscuits and gravy, and French toast. It also offers lunch (sandwiches, soups, desserts). Some foods are prepared with bourbon, for example, honey bourbon butter biscuits, vanilla bourbon waffles, barbecue bourbon pulled chicken sandwich and bourbon peach dump cake.
Though the eatery is still waiting on its liquor license, it plans to offer 20 different bourbons, including Buffalo Trace, Pappy Van Winkle and Basil Hayden, said owner Whitteney Guyton who hopes to open a distillery in the area. That’s why her wife, Darmeshia, came up with the restaurant’s name. Darmeshia, an interior designer, was also responsible for the business’ sleek decor.
The chandelier dangling from the high ceiling caught my eye upon entry. It made the room feel upscale. The attractive, long wooden staircase led to additional seating. I noticed a 12-ish-inch chicken figurine sitting on a table at the top of the stairs before I found a cozy blue sofa by the window. I smiled at the vibrant orange and black walls accented with white horizontal wood panels; they reminded me of my home in Las Vegas.
I ordered the All Winged Up which consisted of three whole wings with bourbon barbecue sauce on the side. I selected the vanilla bourbon waffles as a side item. I
reminded the server that the meal included a honey bourbon butter biscuit. She brought it right away. My alter ego said, “Girlfriend, you don’t need those extra carbs.” I couldn’t help myself; the description alone made me drool.
I tore into the golden chicken. With “bird” in the business’ name, I had high expectations. It didn’t disappoint. The thick coating was crunchy, flavorful and delicious and the meat was hot and juicy. I dipped a piece into the sauce; it didn’t need a
condiment, not even hot sauce.
The wings paired perfectly with the vanilla-flavored waffles that were infused with bourbon syrup. It had a little sweetness and a savory component — perhaps from the seasoned chicken sitting on top of it. I poured syrup over the grooves to enhance the sugar in the waffles before enjoying the crispy edges and fluffy middles.
At this point, the blues music
playing in the background matched my mood — chill and unbothered. My belly was almost maxed out but I winged it.
The subtle smoky notes made the biscuit’s firm top and soft interior worth eating — no regrets. This was definitely not your mama’s biscuit. Scrumptious.
I topped off my lunch with a tall cup of chai latte — a tasty ending to a good meal and a place with a cool vibe.
Guyton recommended I try the duck fried rice next time; it pays homage to her mother who loved the bird. I jotted a note on paper so I wouldn’t fowl-get it.
She plans to open a second Birds and Bourbon in the old Moseberth’s Fried Chicken building in Portsmouth — a date yet to be determined. Don’t worry, Guyton is keeping the iconic chicken on top of the sign.
Another place to get your fix is Neat Bird — a chicken and whiskey spot — in Summit Pointe in Chesapeake. It offers a simple menu with chicken and sides such as potato salad, slaw and creamed corn with chorizo. Appetizers (deviled eggs, pimento cheese), chicken sandwiches, salads and bowls are also available.
The bar is stocked with approximately 100 whiskeys curated by Josh Seaburg, the managing partner who is a certified specialist in spirits and has a diploma in Scotch Whisky. He’ll have 400 at some point and Neat Bird plans to offer whiskey for retail, he said.
The restaurant opened in December by Chef Eric Nelson who also owns Crudo Nudo in Norfolk. He wanted to bring together the things he loved and the items people tend to crave, according to the company’s website and a previous publication.
The dining room was staged with the typical tables and chairs. The elephant in the room, or should I say hen, was the blue, orange, yellow and red colored chicken
painted across the wall. I couldn’t help but laugh; it brightened the gloomy rainy day.
My husband, Curtis, and I shared the jalapeno bombers. They looked like crispy hush puppies. (I hadn’t read the Spanish croquette-style description.) I was expecting a cornmeal taste but it was filled with spicy pillowy cheese — magnificent. The bombers played a Jedi mind trick on me. Curtis and I both agreed they were worth coming back for.
My Tallulah frozen cocktail might be the second reason. The peanut-infused cola with whiskey hit the spot. I liked the layers of each component, and the alcohol wasn’t too strong at first. After a few more sips, my cheeks felt heavy from grinning too much.
The tasty three pieces of dark meat (two legs and a thigh) had a thin crispy coating with the right amount of salt. I loved the fresh and tender flesh but I could only eat two legs. By the way, my sweet drink complemented the savory chicken.
The restaurant uses an ice bath instead of milk for the chicken, explained Morgan
Wood, the manager. It also can make a gluten-free option with rice flour.
The side dishes were a la carte. I got the creamy macaroni and cheese with peppery noodles and the luscious cooked greens (kale). I’m addicted to greens. I never knew kale could taste so good. It was a little tender and seasoned with chopped bacon and bell peppers.
Curtis had the hot chicken sandwich with hot honey and pickles on Texas toast. It came with Zapp’s potato chips, a Louisiana brand, but he ordered a side of potato wedges. He raved about his food so I asked for a bite. I have to agree, the sandwich was hot, sweet and satisfying.
The large chocolate chip cookie with ice cream, and the blueberry bread pudding were delectable but we tapped out after two helpings. I’m more of a traditional bread pudding girl so I wouldn’t get it again — the cookie is a different story.
The leftovers reheated well the next day. I had another egg-cellent experience eating my Neat Bird.
Only thing Tidewater needs now is
a birds and bubbles café to complete a trifecta.
Rekaya Gibson, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com, 757-295-8809; on Twitter @ gibsonrekaya
IF YOU GO
Where: Birds and Bourbon, 116 Granby St., Norfolk
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday
Prices: Appetizers $10 to $13.50, breakfast entrees $13 to $18, lunch entrees $13 to $18.50
Details: 757-937-2810; birdsandbourbonus. com
Where: Neat Bird, 565 Belaire Ave., Chesapeake
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $7 to $16, chicken $5 to $8, cocktails $10 to $14
Details: 757-410-2341; neatbirdva.com