No matter how you say it, Havre de Grace has it all

Let’s get it out of the way right up front.

There is a pronunciation elephant in the room, certain to spark a rampage between those who took French lessons in school, and those who are lifelong Marylanders.

In the first camp would be those who would in- sist that the destination of this day away — Havre de Grace, Md. — would be pronounced “ahvruh de grahss.” But then, there are locals, who’ll tell you they reside in have’er dee grace.

That first (and technically correct) way was how the French Gen. Marquis de Lafayette described the tiny village when he visited it in 1782 and is said to have compared its river/ bay waterfront with that of Le Havre de Grâce in his homeland.

The name stuck, and that Lafayette link is commemorated in the Lafayette Trail that loops about three miles through town, beginning at a statue of the general at the entrance to the downtown area. Brass medallions embedded in the sidewalk, signs and an accompanying guide (historichavredegrace.com/the-lafayettetrail) follow the course that the Marquis took as he ambled through town.

However, this is Maryland, not Normandy; it’s the Susquehanna, not the Seine; and the Chesapeake, not the Channel — so let us call it what the locals call it and hasten to Have’er.

It is a city of surprises. The compact, entirely walkable downtown is dotted with boutiques, art galleries and studios, antique shops, and locally-owned specialty stores. Among the most fascinating are Washington Street Books, whose name belies its range of both merchandise and museum pieces on display. Several props and costumes from major motion pictures are on display, and some are on sale.

Nearby is Zodiac Records, a “groovy” time capsule of LPs, 45s, tapes, stereos, equipment, clothing and tchotchke from the pre-CD and digital era. It is also as much a museum as a store.

And then, there’s Bahoukas BrewMania MuZeum, where about 9,000 square feet on two cramped floors are packed with everything from vintage and valuable sports memorabilia to vast NASCAR rarities to a full floor of nothing but brewing and distilling artifacts, including steins, cups, glasses, art and the broadest “beer can wall” you’re likely to ever see.

Not to sound too much like a chamber of commerce puff piece, “HdG” truly is a town with “something for everyone.” Its history is showcased in several sites, including the Colored School Museum & Cultural Center, a free attraction that recalls the segregated schools in the region; the Lock House Museum that presents the history of the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal that was in operation in the late 19th century; the Maritime Museum,

filled with artifacts related to the town’s relationship to the maritime trades; and the Decoy Museum, which houses a stellar collection of working and decorative

Chesapeake Bay decoys and waterfowling.

The linchpin of the scenic and historic in the city is the Concord Point Light

house, the 30-foot-high (28 steps/eight rung ladder to the top) gem in a sprawling park that features several memorials and monuments, and works of environmental art.

The lighthouse Keepers’ Dwelling is across the street from the park, and includes a small museum and gift shop. Public restrooms are nearby. Both attractions are free, but donations are encouraged.

That park is the northern end of a three-quartermile Promenade, a pleasant boardwalk that winds its way tightly on the scenic shoreline to Tydings Park. Along it are placards that explain the historic and environmental attributes of the river and bay. The Decoy and Maritime museums are connected to the Promenade.

As it is along the Chesapeake Bay, which is heralded for its cuisine, Havre de Grace does not disappoint in its dining opportunities where blue crabs, rockfish and other delicacies may be enjoyed, with a few restaurants featuring scenic views of the bay. Several other eateries are in the downtown district.

For dessert — and pure decadence — the iconic Bomboy’s Candy shop has been around since 1978, and its companion ice cream parlor is across the street, a convenient equidistance from the Lighthouse to Downtown.

COURTESY OF CHARLES J. ADAMS III The Promenade in Havre de Grace is a scenic boardwalk that extends for about three-quarters of a mile along the northernmost shore of the Chesapeake Bay, and connects Concord Point Park with Tydings Memorial Park, the marina, museums and natural areas.

COURTESY OF CHARLES J. ADAMS III The Concord Point Lighthouse was built in 1827 and is open to the public weekends from April through October. Visitors may climb the 30steps to the top, and visit the Keeper’s Dwelling across the street.

COURTESY OF CHARLES J. ADAMS III The Havre de Grace Colored School Museum & Cultural Center preserves the history of the segregated school era in Harford County, Md.