Dayton Daily News

Budget wine taste test

- By Michael Austin

In my search for a few bottles that cost less than a glass of wine in a lot of restaurant­s, I finally got my hands on all five wines in Target’s new California Roots line — plus an armful of others that mostly ring up for $10 or less.

Are you familiar with Target’s wine? The big box store’s exclusive bottles are made by Trinchero Family Estates, the same wine company behind valuedrive­n brands like Sutter Home, Charles & Charles, Bandit and others. California Roots takes value to the next level, as it’s sold for only $5 each.

There are five different styles of “Target-brand” California Roots wines — pinot grigio, chardonnay, moscato, cabernet sauvignon and a red blend — and of those five, I didn’t really like two of them (the pinot grigio and the chardonnay). That doesn’t mean you won’t like them. You might love them.

Don’t be fooled, as I was recently during a two-day quest, and buy the completely unrelated Root: 1 wines at Target. They were featured prominentl­y in an end-cap display, and the California Roots wines were nowhere to be found. I had a store clerk radio a manager to ask if the Root: 1 wines were, indeed, the “Target brand” wines. The manager (mistakenly) confirmed that they were.

I’ll take the blame on that one — even if I was misled. The Root: 1 wines, from Chile, were all priced closer to $10 each, and I knew going into my excursion that the California Roots wines were $5 each. What can I say — I panicked. The Root:1 wines were generally fine — some were better than fine — and at about $10 a bottle, give or take, they could easily be considered bargains. A decent bottle of wine that costs $10 or less is a find. A decent bottle of wine that costs $5 is a steal.

What is your cutoff for a budget wine? Assuming you like the wine and you feel it is worth the cost, does a budget price reach up to $12 for you? Does it slide beyond that, up to $14 or $15?

But what if you don’t love the wine? Would you drink, or serve, a wine that you aren’t happy to drink, just because you like how little it costs? Would you buy a case of wine that was good enough, just to have a supply on hand for everyday drinking or spontaneou­s social calls?

The bargains are out there, and

What is you rc utoff forab udget wine? Assuming you like the wine and you feel it is worth the cost, does a budget price reach up to $12 for you? Does it slide beyond that, u pto $14 or $15?

the research is pretty easy to get behind. The financial outlay is obviously low. The only commitment is drinking the wine and deciding whether or not you want to buy a bunch more of it. If you don’t love it, you’re out less than the price of a movie ticket.

In addition to Target’s wines, I tasted lots of others with retail prices in the single digits or not far above $10, and I’ve included seven of my favorites of those below. So here are a dozen wines that, even if you try them and don’t like them, won’t hurt your wallet. And if you do like them, stock up.

Target’s California Roots wines:

2016 California Roots Pinot Grigio. Peach — juicy and sweet — led to a nutty finish with a touch of plantain and a soft mouthfeel. $5

2015 California Roots Chardonnay. Super-silky butterscot­ch, hay and ripe red apple skin sum up this medium-bodied wine, which clocks in at 13 percent alcohol. $5

2016 California Roots Moscato. Lush, green honeydew melon mingled with sweet peach, and it was only slightly cloying, saved by zippy acidity. $5

2015 California Roots Red Blend. Blackberry, fennel, herbs and a touch of sweet, bright cherry shone through in this lip-smacking wine with velvety tannins. $5

2016 California Roots Cabernet Sauvignon. Plum, raspberry, cranberry, cedar and notes of earthy minerality were all present in this red-meat cookout wine. $5

Other whites

2016 Famille Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone Blanc. Apricot, zesty lime, citrus, floral and tropical notes were wrapped up here in zingy acidity and minerality. $9

2016 Contrade Malvasia/ Chardonnay. Slate, minerality, candied lime, honey and tropical fruit led to a dry, clean finish in this wine from the Puglia region of Italy. $10

2016 Fetzer Vineyards Shaly Loam Monterey Gewurtztra­miner. Waves of sweet ripe pear, peach, apricot, floral notes and spice were balanced here by bright acidity. $11

Other reds

2016 Melini Borghi D’Elsa Chianti. This Italian wine had cherry and floral notes, a bright streak of raspberry, and a touch of spice on the finish. $8

2017 Bodegas Trapiche Astica Malbec. Dark fruits, smoke, bright acidity, cocoa and a touch of pomegranat­e on the finish characteri­ze this wine from Argentina. $6

2015 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Vin Rouge. A 60/25/15 blend of syrah, grenache and carignan, this zingy French beauty offered plum, licorice, incense, spice and black pepper. $10

 ?? ZBIGNIEW BZDAK/CHICAGO TRIBUNE ?? Target’s new line of $5 wines, California Roots, is perfect for casual sipping and snacking.
ZBIGNIEW BZDAK/CHICAGO TRIBUNE Target’s new line of $5 wines, California Roots, is perfect for casual sipping and snacking.

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